From squalane and ceramides to retinol and glycolic acid, there’s a lot to learn about skin care ingredients and how they affect your skin’s overall appearance. But what about something as basic as collagen? This vital protein gives your skin that youthful look, which means it’s in many skin care products you see on the market today. But what does that all mean? We consulted dermatologists and skin experts to delve deeper into what collagen is, how it works and what you should expect if you use collagen in your daily skin care routine.
What is collagen?
Collagen is a naturally occurring protein in our bodies that supports healthy skin, hair, bones, muscles, tendons and ligaments.
“[It] is one of the major components and main structural proteins of the body’s connective tissue, including the dermis — the skin layer sandwiched between the epidermis and subcutaneous tissue,” says Valerie Aparovich, a biochemist and certified cosmetologist-aesthetician at OnSkin. “The dermis is responsible for the skin’s strength and elasticity, and its ability to stretch and maintain its healthy texture.”
Overall, collagen is responsible for that youthful look of plump, taunt skin. But as we age, our collagen levels deplete.
What type of collagen is best for skin?
A common misconception is that collagen can be absorbed through the skin.
“Collagen molecules are too large to effectively absorb through the skin in their intact form. However, hydrolyzed collagen, also known as collagen peptides, consists of smaller, broken-down collagen molecules that can be better absorbed by the skin when formulated in skin care products,” says Dr. Divya Shokeen, a board-certified medical, surgical and cosmetic dermatologist at the Ocean Skin & Vein Institute in Manhattan Beach, California. “The process of hydrolysis involves breaking down the collagen molecules into peptides through enzymatic or chemical treatment. This allows for a bioavailable form of collagen that can be easily digested and absorbed by the body or through the skin.”
So, what should you look for if you are looking to boost your collagen levels?
“Choose products with the highest concentrations of peptides. The higher the concentration, the closer to the beginning of the ingredient list a product will be,” says Dr. Stacey Tull, a board-certified dermatologist and micrographic dermatologic surgeon based in Cottleville, Missouri. “Also, choose products that will put your skin in contact with peptides for the longest period of time: Serums and creams that are left on will be better than washes or wipes. Collagen peptides also work best when combined with ingredients such as vitamin C, retinol, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid.”
Best skin care for boosting collagen
If you want to improve your skin’s elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improve its overall texture, here are a few collagen-enhancing products to consider.
Consider this product a multivitamin for your skin. It offers all-day hydration and pairs fortified vitamin C with collagen to combat dryness, dullness and loss of firmness and elasticity. Apply it in the a.m. before your moisturizer and SPF for a smooth, hydrated look.
We know that collagen levels decline as we get older — this serum is specifically made to preserve our existing levels of collagen and maintain our skin’s firmness. It delivers collagen amino acids, carnosine (a type of peptide) and antioxidant-rich botanical extracts and oils to support plump, healthy skin.
This serum is formulated to reduce visible signs of skin damage with a patent-pending peptide technology. Translation: It supports the skin’s natural self-repair process and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The lightweight texture works well under makeup.
“I always recommend looking for products that have ingredients that will help with boosting collagen production. This includes ingredients like vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, peptides, exosomes, antioxidants and retinol. Adding in products that have these ingredients can help improve elasticity and firmness and retain ‘bounce’ in the skin,” says Dr. Tess Mauricio, a dermatologist and No.7 partner.
SkinMedica’s TNS Advanced+ Serum incorporates powerful ingredients that promote skin renewal while improving the appearance of coarse wrinkles, fine lines and sagging skin. It comes with a hefty price tag, but this derm says it’s worth it.
“TNS Advanced+ Serum is basically a protein shake for your skin. It combines genetically engineered human growth factors with peptides and is the only skin care product clinically proven to address sagging skin and is worth the splurge,” says Tull.
Looking for fast results? How about a reduction in the appearance of fine lines in just two hours? Therapeutic ingredients like winged kelp and collagen amino acids work together to help restore hydration levels and improve the skin’s suppleness.
One reviewer writes, “I can’t afford Botox anymore, and I was really upset because of those pesky forehead lines, until I got a sample of this stuff. It’s like instant Botox, and I am blown away. I immediately ordered a full size product. I can’t recommend this stuff enough.”
Olay’s Regenerist line is a drugstore favorite, and its peptide-rich moisturizer is a bestseller. The product is fragrance-free and uses collagen peptides, niacinamide and Vitamin B3 to generate cell turnover.
Using this product gives you instant and long-term results with visibly smoothed lines in 15 minutes and firmer and plumper skin in four weeks. The lightweight gel formula absorbs almost instantly.
“Paula’s Choice Pro Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster hydrates as it firms the skin with a healthy blend of peptides,” says Tull, who recommends the product to her clients.
There’s a lot going on in this little bottle. Whether you have normal, dry, oily or combination skin, this multi-peptide serum improves your skin’s overall appearance by fighting signs of aging like dullness, dryness and loss of elasticity.
With Elemis, you can hydrate and firm your skin while protecting it. “[This] is a rich day cream that improves the texture and health of skin. Including ginkgo biloba and SPF 30, the cream not only aids in stimulating collagen with antioxidants but helps protect the skin from harmful UV rays,” says Dr. Michael I. Jacobs, a board-certified dermatologist, an associate professor of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical College and the medical technology director at Cortina.