Micah Spangler
Zanzibar has a spice trade dating back to the 16th century, but today tourism is one of its main industries. Aben Rehan, from Mambo Poa Tours, cracks open a nutmeg seed.
Micah Spangler
Hakuna Matata Spice Farm, named for the Swahili phrase meaning "no worries," made famous by Disney's "The Lion King," is in Dole village, northeast of Zanzibar City.
Micah Spangler
The spice that made Zanzibar famous: The Tanzanian archipelago was once the world's largest producer of cloves.
Micah Spangler
Haji and his teenage assistant pick fruit from an achiote tree. It's used to make a peppery orange-red condiment known variously as achiote, annato and bijol, and often used in South American, Mexican and Caribbean cooking.
Micah Spangler
Achiote is sometimes known as the lipstick tree, as the tiny waxy seeds were traditionally used to make body paint and to redden lips.
Micah Spangler
Local women from Dole bring firewood back to their village. Many villagers live on shared property near Hakuna Matata spice farm.
Micah Spangler
Spice for sale in the Old Market of Stone Town, Zanzibar City's UNESCO-recognized historic quarter.
Micah Spangler
Zanzibar's cosmopolitan heritage is clear in the Swahili architecture of Stone Town, which has Arab, Persian, Indian, European and African influences.
Micah Spangler
Built in the 17th century, Zanzibar's Old Fort is the oldest building on archipelago. The open-air amphitheater (pictured) regularly hosts dance and music events.
Micah Spangler
The Nungwi peninsula is about an hour's drive north of Stone Town. The former fishing village of Nungwi is known for its white-sand beaches.
Micah Spangler
Shallow waters and steady winds make Paje, on Zanzibar's southeast coast, one of the best kite-surfing spots in the world.
Micah Spangler
45-seater restaurant The Rock is perched on a super-tiny not far from Paje. During high tide, patrons must be ferried across to reach the restaurant.
CNN  — 

“Have you seen ‘The Lion King’?”

The van turns off the main road and speeds down a dirt path shrouded in vegetation.

“That’s where we are going! Hakuna Matata Spice Farm!” shouts my tour guide Aben Rehan, gripping the wheel and laughing as he repeats the Swahili phrase made famous by the 1994 Disney film.

I’ve been in Zanzibar for less than a day but have already heard “Hakuna Matata” – meaning “no worries” – yelled at me several times over.

I’ve quickly come to interpret the refrain as a local code word for, “Hey foreigner, come buy this thing.”

But as the van comes to a stop at the entrance of the spice farm, there are no crowds of tourists, no pushy souvenir sellers. I am, as far as I can tell, the only person there.

A man named Haji introduces himself and his assistant – a 15-year-old boy with a sharp knife sticking out of his back pocket.

“After this is over you will be the King…” Haji says. “The King of Spice!”

Unique eats: 8 amazing meals that won’t be repeated

Spice trade

Spices have long been a pillar of Zanzibar’s trade-heavy economy.

Zanzibar City, with its UNESCO-listed historic center Stone Town, is the heart of this Indian Ocean archipelago, positioned 25 miles east of the Tanzanian mainland.

The Portuguese and Chinese introduced spices such as garlic, cacao and chili to the islands several centuries ago.

But it was the Omani Sultan Seyyid Said – upon moving the capital of his empire Stone Town in 1840 – who fully exploited the potential of Zanzibar’s tropical climate and incredibly fertile soil.

The Sultan mandated the establishment of clove plantations on both public and private lands and forced Zanzibar’s slave population to grow and harvest the crops, fashioning the less than 1,000-square-mile archipelago into the world’s single largest cloves producer.

Cloves were traded like gold at the time – a staple prized not only for taste but as a common method of curing and preserving meats long before the advent of the refrigerator.

World’s 23 best cities for street food

Modern Zanzibar

Today, however, Zanzibar is an economy in transition.

While cloves remain the archipelago’s leading domestic product, its production numbers have been surpassed by other mega-suppliers such as Indonesia and Madagascar.

Zanzibar, as a result, has capitalized on its history as the world’s “Spice Islands” – a title also claimed by Indonesia’s Maluku archipelago – to become a popular destination for eco-tourists and food fans alike.

In a vacationer’s paradise famous for World Heritage-standard Swahili architecture, near-perfect kite surfing conditions, and a 45-seat restaurant perched on top of a sea-bound rock, spice farms like Hakuna Matata top the list of Zanzibar attractions.

And there’s a good reason for that.

Zanzibar spice tours provide an intense, detailed introduction to the region’s rich botanical and cultural heritage, as well as its dark history as the Africa Great Lakes region’s main slave-trading port.

Micah Spangler
The Rock restaurant lies off Michanvi Pingwe beach on the main island's southeast coast.

Madagascar: A magnificent island for your travel list

Fragrant harvest

The Hakuna Matata spice farm is in Dole village, about nine miles northeast of Stone Town.

Over the next two hours Haji guides me through the farm’s thick maze of trees, bushes, and fragrant vines including vanilla, ginger, black pepper, turmeric, cinnamon, lemongrass, and more.

While it’s clear the farm’s main product is tours not exports, nothing about the experience feels artificial.

Each spice comes with its own story – how it arrived on the island and an explanation of its uses, both common and uncommon.

“A lady takes this and the shyness goes away,” Haji says as he cracks a nutmeg seed and displayed the red-veined fruit inside. “Shininess?” I ask, mishearing the word.

“Shyness but just for the lady. She takes it when she wants to celebrate some way … or wants to have a big family. This is like Viagra for her,” he explains plainly. “You get it?”

“I got it.”

As the tour comes to an end, Haji presents me with a delicious traditional meal prepared with many of the spices we have seen over the course of the afternoon, including clove-infused rice, creamed spinach, and pickled onions and tomatoes topped with biryani sauce.

“Eat as much as you want,” Aben says, joining us on a plastic mat spread across the ground. “This is all for you!”

As we finish our meal, locals sit around trading jokes and fashioning hats out of bamboo leaves.

A few others further in the bush sing a song in Swahili, the only part of which I understand is the chorus line of “Hakuna Matata.”

Now, the mantra strikes me as joyous. No longer an urgent plea, its smooth rhythms meant “no worries” and nothing else.

PETER MARTELL/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
Meet the Maasai warriors of the Serengeti, climb Africa's highest peak and dive beneath Zanzibar's tropical coastline. There's something for everyone in Tanzania, and whether that involves dancing the night away to Afro-rhumba or refueling with platefuls of fresh octopus, it won't be hard to have a good time in this modernizing land of natural beauty.
Sergey Pesterev/Flickr Open/Getty Images/Flickr Open
At 19,340 feet, Kilimanjaro is Africa's highest peak, but the climb to the top is surprisingly accessible and can take as little as 4-5 days on the so-called "fast route." In fact, the fastest ever summit was achieved by Italian Bruno Brunod, who managed to reach the peak in 5 hours 38 minutes.

The journey to the top from the steppes below takes in all manner of ecosystems, stretching from agrarian landscapes to rainforest, heath to alpine desert before arctic conditions at the summit. At the top of the mountain lies a simple wooden box in which climbers can record their thoughts.
Kevin Arnold/The Image Bank/Getty Images
Tanzania's famous Maasai warriors survey the savannahs of the Great Rift Valley. Traditionally known as herders, livestock are a vital resource for the Maasai. Their diet consists largely of cow's meat, milk and blood, tapped from the jugular with no lasting damage to the animal. On certain occasions the two are combined in something akin to a blood milkshake. Modernization is creeping into Maasai life however and food is becoming more varied, and dinner is as likely to include maize, rice, potatoes and "goat leaves" (cabbage).
MARCO LONGARI/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
The Maasai are increasingly integrating with wider society and entering urban centers. This is due in part to inconsistent rains throughout the Serengeti leading to tougher livestock conditions. Various handicrafts are finding their into markets and the Maasai's much-prized hair braiding skills are becoming popular with Tanzanians.
Visuals Unlimited, Inc./Adam Jones/Visuals Unlimited/Getty Images/Visuals Unlimited
Sometimes called "Africa's Garden of Eden," the Ngorongoro Crater is a 12-mile-wide ecosystem within an ecosystem that was created by a massive collapse of land following a volcanic eruption. Labeled one of the seven natural wonders of Africa, the crater sits at 5,900 feet above sea level and evidence suggests hominids have lived in the wider conservation area for over 3 million years. Near Arusha in the north of Tanzania, it is one of the world's most unchanged wildlife sanctuaries.
Chris Jackson/Getty Images Europe/Getty Images
Tanzania has over 120 tribes and in the post-colonial era the country's first president Julius Nyerere made it his mission to unite the newly independent nation whilst maintaining its rich heterogeneity. The Sukuma is the largest tribe and accounts for approximately 16% of the population. Other large tribes include the Nyamwezi, Makonde, Haya and Chagga. Ethnographic recordings from over 100 Tanzanian tribes are currently being digitized as part of a 100,000 hour collection held by the state-run Tanzanian Broadcasting Corporation.
RIEGER Bertrand/Hemis.fr RM/Getty Images/Hemis.fr RM
Dar es Salaam is known as the musical center of East Africa. Late into the night, the city's beach bars play a mix of Tanzanian pop and the country's unique take on hip hop -- Bongo Flava. Those who would rather something more old school can dance into the small hours to the sounds of Afro-rhumba, a genre that came to Tanzania from West Africa via Cuba.
AFP/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
At 7am every morning in Dar es Salaam, the Kivukoni fish market comes alive with the frenetic trade of produce brought in fresh from the Indian Ocean. Head down to get your hands on the freshest fish in the country, and barter along with Tanzania's housewives and restaurateurs. If you fail in that cultural venture, Kivukoni also contains Tanzania's National Museum and the Botanical Gardens.
AFP/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
Fish might be the dish of the day for many, but octopus is also a mainstay of coastal cuisine. Seen here in Kivukoni is the preferred way of cooking it: dropped in a boiling cauldron of oil with maximum heat and minimal fuss. Just mind your fingers!
Peter Unger/Lonely Planet Images/Getty Images/Lonely Planet Images
Zanzibar is known as "spice island." Delve into the tastes and textures of the island's markets that draw in flavors from African, Arab, Indian and European cuisine. Cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon and pepper are the lifeblood of Zanzibar's spice trade, an industry dating back to the 16th century and to which the island is indebted for its cosmopolitan feel.
Nigel Pavitt/AWL Images RM/Getty Images/AWL Images RM
The rustic labyrinthine alleys of Zanzibar's Stone Town hold within them centuries of this multicultural island's history. Walk the streets to find Persian bathhouses, coffee shops and frenetic bazaars.
AFP/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
More than 99% of Zanzibar's citizens are Muslim and the island has a collection of stunning places of worship. In Stone Town is the Malindi Mosque, dated from the 15th century and notable for its unusual conical minaret and square platform. The Hujjatul Islam mosque is known for having the most ornate exterior, the Laghbari mosque the finest interior, whilst the Bagh Muharmi mosque is the proud owner of the island's highest minaret.
AFP/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
One of the more unsavory chapters of Zanzibar's history is its role in the Arab slave trade. British influence stemmed the trade and it was finally prohibited in 1876, with the island become a British protectorate in 1890. Today the lives of those stolen away from East Africa are commemorated in an area that was once the slave market in Stone Town.
Jon Arnold Images/AWL Images RM/Getty Images/AWL Images RM
Known "as the green island" in Arabic, Pemba lies 50 kilometers east of mainland Tanzania. More fertile than other islands in the Zanzibar archipelago, its main cash crop is cloves. But the main reason to visit is to explore the natural wonders that surround Pemba. The azure waters are an ideal spot for diving, with steep drop-offs, untouched coral and abundant marine life.
Nigel Pavitt/AWL Images RM/Getty Images/AWL Images RM
In the 14th century, Kilwa Kisiwani was a center of wealth and opulence as a trading hub that linked Africa to Persia, India and China. Today the area's ruinous buildings are a captivating sight to behold and have been given Unesco World Heritage status. Other heritage locations include the Kondoa rock art sites, a collection of over 150 natural shelters decorated with paintings dating back over 2,000 years.
DANIEL HAYDUK/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
Central Dar es Salaam is a bustling metropolis and many of its historic building have been destroyed during its transformation. However some of those that remain have rich narratives and hold a largely forgotten revolutionary story: Mandela's ANC, the Mozambique Liberation Front, Che Guevara and Malcolm X all found refuge in the port city at various times.
MHGALLERY/iStockphoto/Getty Images/iStockphoto
Africa's largest wildlife reserve, the 48,000 square kilometer Selous Game Reserve, is home to a cornucopia of Tanzania's indigenous wildlife. Visit the country's largest protected area to see lion, leopards, elephants, buffalo, and black rhino among other wild and wonderful creatures.
TONY KARUMBA/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
North of Selous is the Serengeti, a conservation area in which elephants roam freely. Catch a glimpse of these majestic beasts on one the country's eco-safaris, a popular option for luxury holidaymakers. The Serengeti National Park is bucking a negative trend in Tanzania: strong anti-poaching measures have seen an increase in elephant numbers, nearly doubling to 6,087 between 2009 and 2014.
PETER MARTELL/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
Kenya's Maasai warriors are not the only unlikely cricket enthusiasts in East Africa. In 2014 avid fans and a handful of ex-players played 10 overs each below the summit of Kilimanjaro before clouds stopped play -- not unreasonable considering they were amongst them at nearly 19,000 feet. In doing so they beat the previous world record for the highest cricket match ever played, held by a group on Mount Everest in 2009.
DANIEL HAYDUK/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
One of the most important dates in Tanzania's calendar is Union Day, marking the anniversary of the joining of the People's Republic of Zanzibar and Tanganyika. Among Tanzania's 17 public holidays, it's a perfect opportunity to hit the beach.

Arranging a Zanzibar spice tour

8 over-the-top safaris in Kenya big on comfort

A spice tour is one of the most popular attractions in Zanzibar and, as a result, there’s a surplus of companies to choose from when planning your visit.

08:01 - Source: CNN
Zanzibar: A tropical paradise with a unique identity

However, the difference between good tour companies and bad is readily apparent, says Aben Rehan, from Jambiani-based Mambo Poa Tours.

“We have big [tour] companies and they have many, many weaknesses. They choose inexperienced guides that have a lack of information but people don’t know.”

“This place is full of natural beauty, so whichever environment visitors face, they will like. Even if staff are crazy.”

In other words, it’s easy to let Zanzibar’s lush surroundings convince you you’re getting a good tour when you really aren’t.

It’s best to look for a company that’s going to provide the added history and context that will make your trip extra-special.

A private tour with Mambo Poa Tours costs $30, including transportation and lunch. The price of a shared tour is $20 per person.

Other major spice tour operators include Colors of Zanzibar, which runs outings for $35 per person and Pure Zanzibar, which is $40.

Photos: Africa’s eye-popping take on architecture

10 most romantic islands in the world

Micah Spangler is a freelance journalist based in Washington, DC. His work has appeared in CNN, The Daily Beast, VICE, Maxim, The Week, and more.