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Kim Kyung-seop recalls going to cheap bars after class with his friends, where they binged on as much makgeolli as possible.
“You know the saying, ‘alcohol consumes men?’ It was like that.”
Makgeolli, the milky and often sweet traditional rice wine from Korea, was chosen for its price, not flavor.
In 1989, when Kim entered college, half a gallon of makgeolli cost about 40 cents. He and his friends would sit around a table, pouring makgeolli from a brass kettle into individual brass bowls, as is tradition.
Kim, now an adjunct professor at Global Cyber University in Seoul, has been teaching makgeolli brewing techniques for 10 years. Yet he remembers his early encounter with the drink being unpleasantly sour and bitter.
“When we were with women, we would drink beer. But among the boys, we drank makgeolli.” Makgeolli – with its less chic reputation – was unfit for impressing women.
Two decades later, in bars across South Korea’s capital, the lackluster drink from Kim’s memory was becoming trendy, this time in the hands of a young generation of entrepreneurs and brewers.
“We worked very hard to get rid of the established images people hold of makgeolli,” says Kim.
Kim Min-kyu (no relation to Kim Kyung-seop) is one brewer who had been leading the change. He launched his premium makgeolli brewery Boksoondoga in 2009.
Min-kyu’s teetotaler, devout Christian father opposed his plan – especially after having spent the family fortune supporting his son’s five years of training as an architect in New York City’s Cooper Union. His father even smashed a clay pot used for brewing makgeolli in a fit of anger.
Min-kyu was not deterred. He believed in the strength of his grandmother’s makgeolli recipe.
When he was a child, he would visit her farmhouse in Yangsan, a town in the southeast. She would mix half-steamed rice with her homemade yeast and water. And he would listen to the quiet bubbling of air as the mixture fermented into makgeolli. His fondest memories were his grandmother generously sharing the finished brew with the neighbors, after which they would sing and dance.
He convinced his family that brewing is an extension of architecture for him. Applying his training, he designed the branding, the marketing materials and the brewery building, while his mother brewed the makgeolli, creating the first bottle of Boksoondoga. Doga means “brewery,” and Boksoon is Kim’s mother’s name.
The timing was fortuitous. Makgeolli was coming out of a century-long dark age.
Boksoondoga
Kim Min-kyu is one of the trailblazers of Korea's new makgeolli scene.
Makgeolli is a combination of the Korean words mak (meaning “roughly done” or “a moment ago”) and geolleun (“filtered”).
While the name first appears in “Gwangjaemulbo,” an encyclopedia presumed to have been written in the 19th century, the opaque alcoholic drink likely dates back a millennium.
One early 20th century record claims that it was consumed in every corner of Korea.
“Makgeolli is inherent to Korean culture, it’s the drink of Korean people,” Kim Kyung-seop says.
One reason for the popularity is its simplicity. It is a mixture of steamed rice, yeast and water, left to ferment for a few weeks in a clay pot. Many families across Korea brewed their own drinks with their unique recipe.
The Japanese colonization during the first half of the 20th century brought the end of many cottage industries. The colonial government phased out homebrewers in favor of standardized, industrial liquor makers. All alcohol-making was taxed and licenses were required, even for self-consumption.
A few mass-produced drinks dominated the market and, by 1934, homebrewing was outlawed.
World War II and the Korean War left the country devastated. The new government continued the policy of tightly controlling alcohol production. As the food shortage worsened in the 1960s, using rice — makgeolli’s key ingredient — to produce alcoholic drinks was banned.
Manufacturers used wheat and barley as substitutes and makgeolli’s popularity sunk. It was supplanted by modern soju, a clear liquor made by diluting ethanol. As the economy improved and rice supply outstripped consumption, the rice alcohol ban was lifted in 1989 and homebrewing was made legal again in 1995. But much tradition was lost.
01:16 - Source: CNN
A little slice of North Korea in Seoul
The recovery of the lost art of makgeolli brewing can largely be credited to pioneer researchers like Park Rock-dam. Park traveled across Korea for 30 years collecting recipes and recreating old techniques.
The government also reversed course on its previous policy, embracing traditional alcohol as a proud heritage – and potentially lucrative – industry.
In 2016, the government allowed small scale breweries and distilleries to sell their alcoholic drinks by lowering the brewing tank size requirement from 5,000 to 1,000 liters. The next year, traditional alcoholic beverages were given the unique privilege of being sold online and delivered directly to consumers.
While the Covid-19 pandemic prevented people from going out to bars and restaurants, online and offline sales of makgeolli soared. According to a 2021 report published by Korea Agro-fisheries and Food Trade Corporation (aT), a government-operated company that promotes agricultural products, the makgeolli market grew by 52.1% while the total liquor market shrank by 1.6% in 2020.
Kim Kyung-seop
Kim Kyung-seop teaches a makgeolli brewing course.
In Kim Kyung-seop’s makgeolli class, half of the students are entrepreneurs, many of them women in their 30s or younger. Ten years ago, almost everyone in class was over 50 and looking to brew makgeolli as a hobby in their retirement.
Since 2009, the number of makgeolli brewing license holders have increased by 43%, according to National Tax Service data.
Kim says that opening a makgeolli brewery is much easier than any other type of alcohol. While equipment for setting up a beer microbrewery is around 200-300 million won ($155,000-233,000), equipment for a makgeolli brewery can be acquired for 10 million won ($7,800), Kim says. Furthermore, it only takes four 3-hour classes to brew something that’s better than the mass market makgeolli, he adds.
An Australian citizen, Julia Mellor originally came to South Korea to teach English. Then in 2009, she encountered makgeolli.
Now, her business The Sool Company provides makgeolli classes and consultations for those interested in opening their own brewery, but most of her clients are from overseas. She says her business quadruped during the pandemic.
Her clients are from countries like the US, Singapore and Denmark. Many of them are members of the Korean diaspora. “They watch Korean people enjoying it here and they are inspired to bring it back to their country,” she says.
“It was so different, so interesting. It is rare to discover something people in the world haven’t heard of.”
She organized meetups with fellow enthusiasts and eventually taught herself Korean because most resources were not available in English.
The Sool Company
Participants in a The Sool Company tasting session hold up their glasses.
Mellor believes makgeolli will appeal to foreign audiences.
“It’s very easy to homebrew. You simply need rice and nuruk (yeast).”
And for her, propagating the makgeolli carries another layer.
“This is saving something that was on the brink of disappearing,” says Mellor.
Kim Min-kyu says his makgeolli will be sold in the US and Austria this year and other Western buyers have been approaching him. His makgeolli is already a hit in Japan, where it became popular during Hallyu, or the Korea-wave in the mid-2000s, a period when the success of K-dramas and K-pop opened the door to other cultural exports like kimchi and traditional drinks.
“To foreign consumers, this natural fermentation is considered healthy, organic and clean. And it’s a type of alcohol they have never seen before,” Min-kyu says.
Korean “soft power” has expanded beyond Asia in the past few years. He believes makgeolli can ride this wave.
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Sambuyeon Falls: Legend has it that a dragon once flew out from this 20-meter-high waterfall in the Gangwon Province -- that's why the name of the nearby village Yonghwadong begins with the character for dragon.
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Namhansanseong Fortress: Located on Mt. Namhan in Gyeonggi Province, this 12-kilometer-long earthen fortress was originally built 2,000 years ago and reconstructed in 1621. With lots of hiking trails in the area, it's a popular place for day excursions.
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Sareung: This UNESCO World Heritage site is actually the royal tomb of Queen Jeongsun (1440-1521) from the Joseon Dynasty. Located in Gyeonggi Province, access to the tomb area is restricted to those with "the purpose of academic research and field investigation" and guests with "the purpose of education and worship."
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Seonjeongneung: This UNESCO World Heritage Site comprises royal tombs of Joseon's ninth King Seongjong, his queen Jeonghyeon and son, King Jungjon. Located in Gangnam, Seoul, the tombs are open to visitors daily (excluding Mondays) for less than $1.
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Gobungun, Changyeong: These ancient tombs date to the 5th and 6th centuries. There are approximately 180 tombs in this area in South Gyeongsang Province that are close to main roads and easy to access.
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Anapji Pond: Built in the year 674 during the Silla Dynasty, this beautiful circular pond in North Gyeongsang Province was originally constructed inside a fortress that was later destroyed.
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Geunjeongjeon, Gyeongbokgung: Important state affairs were once conducted in the Geunjeongjeon, the Throne Hall of Gyeongbokgung Palace in Jongno-gu, Seoul. The welcome ceremony depicted in this photo was held in honor of the
historic return of Korean royal books that had been looted by the French military 145 years before.
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Changgyeonggung: Built in 1483 by King Sejong, Changyeonggung was typically used as the residential palace for queens and concubines of the Joseon Dynasty. Admission tickets can also be used at Seoul's four palaces, Deoksugung, Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung, as well as the Jongmyo shrine.
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Inwangsan: This 338-meter-high mountain on the outskirts of Seoul offers probably the best view of the city, including the palaces, N Seoul tower and the Blue House, residence of the Korean president. Known for its hiking trails, the mountain has a number of castles that were built to protect the city from foreign invasion.
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Jongmyo Shrine: Built by the first king of the Joseon Dynasty, Lee Seong Gye, the Jongmyo Shrine in Jongno-gu, Seoul, is where kings came to worship and conduct memorial services. A memorial service that's reenacted the first Sunday of each May incorporates music and dance from five centuries ago.
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Gochang Dolmen site: Dubbed the Stonehenge of Korea, there are more than 400 dolmen (stone graves built during the prehistoric era) at this UNESCO World Heritage Site. There's a dolmen museum on site.
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Wanggungri: The five-story pagoda at Wanggungri in Iksan, North Jeolla Province, is an iconic example of the refined architecture of the Baekje Period (18 BCE-660 CE).
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Seoul Seonggwak Fortress Wall: The 18.2-kilometer-long stone wall here was erected in Seoul during the Joseon Dynasty to protect the capital. A scenic walking tour goes past many points of interest, including Dongdaemun (home of late-night trendy shopping centers) and Naksan Mountain, and ends at Ehwajang, where Korea's first president, Syngman Rhee, once lived.
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Gangneung Anbandeok-gil: Thanks to its close proximity to Seoul (approximately three hours by express bus), Gangneung in Gangwon Province is one of the most popular year-round destinations in the country for domestic tourists. The city is known for its mountains and beaches, a Confucian school, museums and more.
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Soyang Lake: Soyang Lake's nickname is "sea on land." It owes its existence to Soyang Dam, Asia's largest rock-fill dam. A hotspot for ice-fishing, the lake in Gangwon Province is known for its tranquility and exquisite scenery.
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Upo Wetlands: The Upo Wetlands are home to more than 1,000 species and span 5,550 square kilometers. The wetlands have been protected since 1998. It's best to visit in the morning or early evening to catch the prettiest views of rain, fog and fireflies.
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Hapcheon daraknon: The terraced rice paddy fields of Hapcheon in South Gyeongsang Province are a wonderful sight. Thin and long terraced rice paddies like these are called "daraknon," a North Korean term still used in the South.
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Buseoksa: The 108 steps between Cheonwang gate and Anyang gate at Buseoksa Temple represent the number of cycles it takes for redemption from agony and evil. Built in 676 during the Silla Dynasty, Buseoksa Temple in North Gyeongsang Province is the oldest wooden building still standing in Korea. The temple's bell is rung 33 times every evening at 6 p.m.
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Geumsan Boriam Temple: Pray at Geumsan Boriam Temple and your prayers will be answered -- so locals say, anyway. Located in North Gyeongsang Province, the temple offers a program for visitors to spend the night.
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Dolsan Bridge: The longest cable-stayed bridge in Korea has become a local tourist attraction in itself due to the dramatic way it's lit up at night. Located in South Jeolla Province, the bridge is perfect for evening walks.
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Andong Hahoe Village: Korea's most iconic folk village in North Gyeongsang Province has long been a birthplace for scholars and nobles of the Ryu family. Even Queen Elizabeth paid a visit in 1999. Visitors can sleep in a traditional Korean house and experience how Korean nobles lived for hundreds of years.
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Ojakgyo: Meaning "crow and magpie bridge," Ojakgyo in North Jeolla Province is the setting for Korea's most famous love story, in which a couple is forced to live on either side of the Milky Way, only to be reunited when magpies form a bridge.
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Biyangdo: This tiny island 15 minutes by boat from
Jeju Island's Hallim Port is known for its summer fishing. Legend has it that this tiny island flew to its current spot from China 1,000 years ago.
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Gwangalli: Along with Haeundae, Gwangalli is one of Busan's iconic beaches. The Gwangan Bridge, Korea's longest suspension bridge, presents one of Busan's hallmark photo ops.
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Samhwasa: Poets and painters have sought out Samhwasa Temple in Gangwon Province for centuries for its incredible scenery. The west peak of Dutasan Mountain, where the temple is located, is said to look like a phoenix and a crane, while the east peak has the shape of a tiger and a dragon.
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Hamdeok: Hamdeok is a small seaside village located 30 minutes east of Jeju Airport. Beautiful fields of rapeseed flowers cover the landscape in summer, but play second fiddle to Hamdeok's sapphire beach, a popular kayaking destination with calm waters.
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Hyeupjae Beach: Ask a Korean travel writer which beach is the most beautiful in the country and probably 10 times out of 10, the response will be Hyeupjae Beach.
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Marado: This island in Seogwipo-si is relatively difficult to reach -- a ferry leaves only a handful of times each day from the south coast, at Moseulpo Harbor.
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Yonghwa Beach: This Samcheok city beach has a fragrant pine forest and a stream running alongside it, making for a shaded happy holiday with the choice of playing in seawater or freshwater.
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Sehwa-ri: Seagulls flock to this small white beach on Jeju Island, especially in winter. "The road from Sehwa-ri to Seongsaneup, home of fabulous sunsets, is beloved by the locals for its pretty scenery," says photographer Kim Bong-sun.
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Songaksan: Known for its 99 peaks, this Jeju volcanic mountain has a crater spanning 500 meters in diameter. It takes only an hour to walk to the highest peak, which is 104 meters above sea level.
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Udo: Another satellite island off Jeju, Udo has a wicked black pork barbecue that's worth the journey. The island is a 15-minute boat ride from Seongsan Harbor, about an hour's drive from Jeju Airport.
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Yongduam: Yongduam, meaning "dragon head rock," is a must-visit spot for Jeju Island tourists. Rough weather makes for dramatic shots of waves crashing against the rock.
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Cheonjiyeon Falls: The beautiful waterfall located on Jeju Island takes its name, which means "the pond of the gods," from a legend about seven heavenly attendants coming down to earth to bathe in the pond. To honor the legend, a Seven Fairies Festival is held each May.
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Tokkiseom: When covered in white flowers in summer (this is the only place in Korea where crinum grows), this small island off Jeju is said to look like a white rabbit from a distance. Hence its name, which means "rabbit island."
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Yeongam: Yeongam in South Jeolla Province is a pleasant, leisurely place to visit. Local attractions include temples, ancient tombs and traditional estates.
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Miryang Maneosa: The thousands of floatstones around this ancient temple in South Gyeongsang Province are supposedly fishes that were turned into stone. Wishing on the rock is said to grant sons to women who were unable to conceive them before.
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Seongsan Ilchungbong: South Korea's most famous "sunrise peak" is a 5,000-year-old volcanic crater in Jeju-si. A UNESCO World Heritage Site with views like this every morning, it's a magnet for photographers from all over the country.
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Changdeokgung: The second oldest of the five grand palaces in the country, Changdeokgung in Jongno-gu, Seoul (not to be confused with Changgyeonggung) is home to a number of exceptionally beautiful photo ops.
Courtesy Kim Bong-Sun
Halla Mountain: The highest mountain in South Korea is also Jeju Island's most iconic landmark and home to approximately 4,000 different animal species. The hiking trails are exquisitely developed, but the fickle weather can be daunting and hiking is allowed only during the day.
Despite the rapid advance of makgeolli, the South Korean alcoholic beverage market is still dominated by soju and beer, which account for more than 80% of sales.
Min-kyu says the greatest challenge facing makgeolli makers is the public perception that the drink is for old people. Most of his advertising and marketing focuses on changing this perception. In one ad, a sharp-looking male model with shaved head and eyebrow piercings delicately pours the makgeolli into a champagne flute.
Changing perceptions relating to the foods best paired with makgeolli is another obstacle.
In Korean culture, alcohol is almost always consumed with a set meal or snack. For makgeolli, this is jeon, a Korean savory pancake made by frying meat or vegetables in seasoned flour batter.
“A cool sip of makgeolli after a bite of savory scallion jeon acts as a palate cleanser readying you to fully enjoy another savory bite,” Kim Kyung-seop says.
The combo is especially popular on rainy days. The sale of makgeolli and ingredients for jeon climbs sharply on rainy days across major convenience store chains, according to a report by the Ministry of Economy and Finance.
But premium makgeolli, with its wide spectrum of flavor, effervescence and body can pair well with any type of food, Min-kyu says.
“I drink it with jajangmyeon (a Chinese-Korean noodle dish) and it pairs very well with ice cream too. Because it’s a fermented drink, it tastes great with other fermented food. I think it’s delicious with kimchi and really flavorful cheese,” Min-kyu added.
Boksoondoga makgeolli was recently the main offering at a gastropub inconspicuously nestled in the trendy Hapjeong district of Seoul. Stylish bartenders deftly poured the drink into stemless wine glasses. The customers, mostly young professionals, savored the drinks while relaxing to hip-hop music. In a leather-bound menu, beef tartare was being offered alongside an array of other premium makgeolli brands.
At the tables, more women filled the seats than men did. After each pour, the bartender explained the flavors and the origin. They smiled. They lifted the glass to their lips, carefully listening to each note hidden in the drink.