Locals may debate whether this river city is the South or the Midwest, but everyone can agree that Louisville, Kentucky, is an exciting place to visit.
Crowds pack the ‘Ville for the Kentucky Derby the first weekend in May, but bourbon-fueled delights await year-round.
A dynamic culinary scene and rapidly growing lineup of urban bourbon attractions round out the rich arts and cultural offerings, with none-too-shabby shopping options to boot.
What to see
From a fabled horse race to “the greatest” boxer of all time, Louisville lays claim to some heavy-hitting sites, with history and art stacking up alongside its star attractions.
You don’t have to be a horse racing fan to appreciate Churchill Downs. Home to the greatest two minutes in sports, the iconic twin spires represent this pinnacle of thoroughbred racing and first jewel of the Triple Crown, the Kentucky Derby.
If you don’t make it to the big day, you can still delve into the history of the race and its magnificent creatures at the Kentucky Derby Museum.
Human achievement is celebrated in Louisville, too. Hometown hero Muhammad Ali’s Childhood Home Museum provides visitors a peek at the humble beginnings of the humanitarian and three-time world heavyweight boxing champion.
And the Muhammad Ali Center downtown offers fans an immersive experience in all things Ali with a journey through his life and contributions.
The approachable Speed Art Museum, which reopened in 2016 after an extreme makeover, showcases art that spans centuries, styles, continents and mediums for visitors who likewise run the gamut of ages and interests.
A real find for history and architecture buffs, the Conrad-Caldwell House presides over the elegant, mansion-lined St. James Court in historic Old Louisville. The opulent 19th-century residence has been restored to the Edwardian age and in its reincarnation as a museum offers a sumptuous glimpse at Louisville’s past.
At the other end of the spectrum, the 21c Museum (inside the 21c Museum Hotel downtown) keeps its free contemporary art galleries open 365 days a year, inciting much conversation – and sometimes controversy – over its regularly changing installations featuring the work of living artists from across the globe.
And you haven’t been to Louisville until you’ve experienced bourbon culture. Several in-town distilleries offer an up-close look at the art and science of whiskey-making. In the heart of Whiskey Row, the Evan Williams Bourbon Experience downtown combines a craft distillery with a history lesson, highlighting how Louisville was built on bourbon.
The city is also home to the Urban Bourbon Trail, a group of bourbon-centric bars and restaurants where visitors can collect bourbon knowledge and stamps toward a free bourbon trail T-shirt.
Not every worthwhile distraction in Derby City is under a roof.
Louisvillians are rightly proud of their parks, a string of green jewels threading through the city. Iroquois and Cherokee parks are treasures among the Frederick Law Olmsted parks system and perfect for a scenic stroll or strenuous hike, or maybe just a picnic under a shade tree.
Churchill Downs, 700 Central Ave., Louisville, KY, 40208;
Muhammad Ali Childhood Home Museum, 3302 Grand Ave., Louisville, KY 40211; +1 (502) 890-5995
Muhammad Ali Center, 144 N. 6th St., Louisville, KY 40202; +1 (502) 584-9254
Speed Art Museum, 2035 S. 3rd St., Louisville, Kentucky 40208; +1 (502) 634-2700
Conrad-Caldwell House, 1402 St. James Court, Louisville, KY 40208; +1 (502) 636-5023
21c Contemporary Art Museum, 700 W Main St, Louisville, KY 40202; +1 (502) 271-6300
Evan Williams Bourbon Experience, 528 W Main St, Louisville, KY 40202; +1 (502) 272-2623
Where to eat
If you’re in town any time other than jam-packed Derby weekend, it’s an embarrassment of riches when it comes to dining. Across the city, talented chefs parlay their passion and Kentucky’s rich agricultural heritage into memorable dishes worth the trip.
Louisvillians remember when Edward Lee was a local household name before vaulting onto the national scene. The celebrated chef, author and television personality’s flagship restaurant 610 Magnolia in Old Louisville is most visitors’ top pick for fine dining, with good reason. Book ahead for this modern take on Southern fare where a changing tasting menu celebrates the best of Louisville and the region.
Fellow “Top Chef” alum Annie Pettry makes local foods shine at Decca, where her love for the ingredients is written on every plate. A series of intimate dining rooms inside and outside an elegantly restored 19th-century NuLu building makes for a dreamy night out.
Across the street at the Mayan Cafe, Bruce Ucán pays homage to his Yucatan roots with beautifully created dishes that make this elegant but relaxed spot a go-to.
Over in Schnitzelburg, Monnik Beer Co. turns out European inspired pub fare that draws as many fans as its craft beers. The agreeably boisterous vibe indoors and on the patio is just right for a night out.
The butcher shop everyone in town was waiting for, Red Hog not only sells gorgeous cuts of local meat, but also serves them up in such tantalizing fare as wood-fired pizzas and burgers in a buzzing, stylish cafe.
610 Magnolia, 610 W. Magnolia Ave., Louisville, KY 40208; +1 (502)636-0783
Decca, 812 E. Market St., Louisville, KY 40206; +1 (502) 749-8128
Mayan Cafe, 813 E. Market St., Louisville, KY 40206; +1 (502) 566-0651
Monnik Beer Co., 1036 E. Burnett Ave., Louisville, KY 40217; +1 (502) 742-6564
Red Hog, 2622 Frankfort Ave., Louisville, KY 40206; +1 (502) 384-0795
Where to drink
Come to Louisville for the bourbon, stay for the other craft beverages ranging from coffee and kombucha to brandy and beer.
Pick your poison with a classic cocktail or a clever riff at swanky downtown cocktail lounge Meta. The folks who run Meta take their drinks seriously, but not themselves – this is the bar that shocked the world when it served Pappy (as in the practically unattainable Pappy Van Winkle bourbon) Jell-O shots.
Bars really have to offer knockout whiskey collections here in bourbon country, but even among some stiff competition The Silver Dollar, a honky tonk inside an old fire station, stands out. Let the friendly bartenders build a flight and find your new favorite.
For a low-key, corner-bar-with-a-jukebox vibe, the Pearl of Germantown is your venue. Same team as The Silver Dollar, same precision in the cocktails, with friendly prices and laid back atmosphere.
Beer is booming in bourbon country, with craft breweries opening at a breakneck clip. A can’t-miss selection of beers from near and far is found in a former church at the Holy Grale and best enjoyed in the heavenly beer garden.
Louisville is gaining a national reputation for its coffee purveyors, and among the town’s abundance of hip shops is Please & Thank You, where you can browse the vinyl collection and satisfy your sweet tooth while sipping a locally roasted cuppa.
Meta, 425 W. Chestnut St., Louisville, KY 40202; +1 (502) 822-6382
The Silver Dollar, 1761 Frankfort Ave., Louisville, KY 40206; +1 (502) 259-9540
Pearl of Germantown, 1151 Goss Ave., Louisville, KY 40217; +1 (502) 996-7552
Holy Grale, 1034 Bardstown Road, Louisville, KY 40204; +1 (502) 459-9939
Please & Thank You, numerous locations
Where to shop
Best save some room in your luggage for mementos of your time in Louisville, where independently owned shops showcase local creativity and craftsmanship.
Old Town Wine and Spirits in the Highlands is a local favorite for its extensive bourbon offerings, including private barrel selections, and friendly, knowledgeable staff. The Instagrammable neon sign outside doesn’t hurt either.
Outside downtown, Butchertown Market – once a leather tannery – is home to several of Louisville’s more intriguing and fun shops. Pick up whimsical creations at Cellar Door Chocolates, stock your spice cabinet with the ingredients every self-respecting Louisville food lover swears by from Bourbon Barrel Foods and find a unique metal accessory at Work the Metal.
In hopping NuLu, Revelry Boutique Gallery sells handmade gifts including jewelry and home decor plus works by local artists.
Old Town Wine and Spirits, 1529 Bardstown Road, Louisville, KY 40205; +1 (502) 451-8591
Butchertown Market, 1201 Story Ave., Louisville, KY 40206; +1 (502) 584-2841
Revelry Boutique Gallery, 742 E. Market St., Louisville, KY 40202; +1 (502) 414-1278
Where to stay
Whether your tastes run to a boutique art hotel like 21c Museum Hotel, or classic glamor like The Brown Hotel, you can certainly find a place suited to lay your head.
21c Museum Hotel, 700 W. Main St., Louisville, KY; +1 (502) 217-6300
The Brown Hotel, 335 W. Broadway, Louisville, KY 40202; +1 (502) 209-7346
Dana McMahan is a freelance writer living in Old Louisville who has covered food, bourbon, travel and other adventures for outlets including The Washington Post, the Los Angeles Times, TheKitchn.com, Food Republic, Fodors and Lonely Planet. Find her at bodybybourbon.com or on instagram @bourbonbarbarella.