Daniel J Allen
The finest quality Hakata ningyo possess a subtle beauty that comes from a sophisticated firing, carving and coloring process. Some are unique, some are mass-produced.
Daniel J Allen
In a small studio on the outskirts of Fukuoka, septuagenarian master doll-maker Kuniaki Takeyoshi lovingly applies the finishing touches to a samurai warrior. Fashioned from white clay, the lifelike doll is intricately detailed, with flowing robes and a trademark topknot hairstyle. After hours of painstaking labor, the latest miniature marvel to roll off the master craftsman's personalized production line is almost ready for sale.
Daniel J Allen
Takeyoshi has dedicated his entire working life to the creation of ningyo. Today his dolls sell in outlets across Japan for up to ¥1.6 million (US$20,000). "I remember the first doll I made when I was 17," he explains. "It was a small boy holding a watermelon. From then on I was hooked. I'm as passionate about my work as I was 53 years ago, although hopefully my skills have improved a little. I don't think I'll ever retire."
Daniel J Allen
Hakata doll production is a long-established, multi-stage process. The first step is to sculpt the figure out of locally sourced clay using a knife and spatula -- the insides are hollowed out to make the doll lighter. The figurine is then allowed to dry outside for 10 days, before being baked in a kiln at 900 degrees for eight hours. Finally, vegetable pigment-based paints are used to add color after the ningyo has dried.
Daniel J Allen
"We often use real gold and silver powder to decorate the more expensive dolls," explains Takeyoshi. "I scrape the gold with fish teeth to make it shiny. It's an old technique. In the past I would use teeth from dogs, but these days they're a lot harder to come by."
Daniel J Allen
Despite the financial incentives, doll-making is not an accessible or greatly sought-after career choice for Fukuoka's younger generation. A highly skilled profession, it requires years of dedication just to pick up the basics -- the first two years of study are reputed to be the most difficult.

Daniel J Allen
The future of Hakata doll-making rests on the shoulders of people such as 42-year-old Manabu Hayashi, Takeyoshi's apprentice for the last six years. "My friends were surprised when I changed careers," says Hayashi with a laugh, "but when they saw my passion they supported me. My master has been very patient. The relationship between teacher and student is very important."
Daniel J Allen
The month of July is a calendar highlight for Fukuoka ningyo makers. It's when the city plays host to the spectacular Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival, one of Japan's biggest celebrations. To get things started, floats called kazariyamakasa are set up in different parts of the city. Made by skilled artisans such as Kuniaki Takeyoshi, these huge constructions are sumptuously decorated with magnificent dolls illustrating historical tales and legends.
Daniel J Allen
Those not passing through Fukuoka in July can still see a magnificent kazariyamakasa on display outside the delightful Kushida Shrine, which makes a great place to begin a city tour. Dating back nearly 1,300 years, Kushida is Fukuoka's most venerable shrine, dedicated to the three gods of Shinto.
Daniel J Allen
Those not in town to see the Hakata Gion Yamakasa can watch it on screen at the Hakata Machiya Folk Museum, close to Fukuoka's Kushida Shrine. There is also a small doll museum with a shop on the first floor of the Fukuoka Tower, while there are numerous shops selling beautiful ningyo around the city's main train station.
Daniel J Allen
Despite the limited number of doll craftsmen now based in Fukuoka, Takeyoshi is optimistic about the future of ningyo-making. "Among many Japanese people there has been a resurgence in interest in our cultural heritage," he says. "More and more people are interested in buying dolls. Some craftsmen are also innovating with styles and characters. This keeps things fresh and fashionable."

Story highlights

Ningyo dolls are created in and around Japan's coastal city of Fukuoka

Small band of skilled artisans keeping ningyo industry alive

CNN  — 

Craftsmen from many regions of Japan are noted for their hand-made dolls, but Hakata dolls – known locally as “ningyo” – are perhaps the most famous.

With production based in and around Fukuoka, a coastal city on the southern Japanese island of Kyushu, these pint-sized pieces of art have a long and evolutionary history.

“Production of Hakata dolls supposedly started in the early 17th century,” explains Harry Sargant of Inside Japan, a British company that organizes tours of Fukuoka.

“A lowly roof tile craftsman called Souhichi Masaki is said to have begun making basic ceramic dolls, which were then copied by other craftsmen. Over time they became increasingly sophisticated and colorful.”

The largest city on Kyushu, Fukuoka is actually two cities – Fukuoka and Hakata – rolled into one.

After the two merged in 1889, the name Fukuoka was applied to both, but many residents still think of their home as Hakata.

Stunning photos of Japan’s most serene and beautiful places

A national symbol of cultural pride

Daniel J Allen
Master doll-maker Kuniaki Takeyoshi.

The dolls remain one of Fukuoka’s most iconic symbols.

Ningyo are popular across Japan, both as ornaments and reminders of Fukuoka’s rich culture and heritage.

“Most dolls are depictions of famous historical characters,” explains septuagenarian master doll-maker Kuniaki Takeyoshi.

“You’ll find everything from bijin (beautiful women), kabuki players, characters from noh (musical dramas) and religious and legendary figures, right through to sumo, samurai and children.”

Most dolls on the market are contemporary, although a small number of more valuable vintage examples date back to the post-World War II period, when a number were taken back to the United States by servicemen as souvenirs.

View this interactive content on CNN.com

While the number of ningyo craftsmen based in Fukuoka has declined, a small band of enduring and highly skilled artisans keeps this niche industry alive.

“It’s certainly a difficult task inspiring the next generation of doll makers,” says Takeyoshi, who is also president of the Fukuoka Doll Making Union. “There are about 70 master craftsmen alive now.”

Takeyoshi is doing what he can to promote the art of doll making.

Through events, meetings and government liaison, the Fukuoka Doll Making Union works to encourage interest from youngsters, as well as to market ningyo at home and abroad.

Visitors to Fukuoka who wish to see how ningyo are made should stop by the Hakata Traditional Craft Center, while at the Shogetudo shop in the city’s Nakasu neighborhood they can even paint their very own Hakata doll.

Daniel Allen is a journalist and photographer based in London and St. Petersburg.