Hong Kongers have been protesting for more than five months and demonstrations are becoming more violent and disruptive. The city’s leaders have maintained Hong Kong is still open for business, but is it still safe to visit?
The situation has changed significantly since June 9, when protest organizers estimated more than a million people took part in a peaceful march to oppose a bill that would have allowed Hong Kong to extradite suspected criminals to mainland China.
Recent protests have become less predictable and increasingly dangerous, fanning out around the city and springing up in places with little warning.
Police have used lethal force multiple times during recent clashes with protesters. In October, they discovered an uncovered an explosive device they say was targeted at officers.
University campuses have also become battlegrounds, with riot police and student protesters clashing across multiple locations throughout the city.
If you’re coming to the city, here’s what you need to know.
The Airport Express gets you from the airport to the city center in fewer than 30 minutes for about $14. Uber is available, but it’s not as popular as it is in the US because Hong Kong taxis are easy to find and are relatively inexpensive.
But the protests, especially ones not sanctioned by police, can make it extremely difficult to get to your destination no matter how well you plan.
Authorities shut the entire Mass Transit Railway or MTR system in early October due to vandalism and “illegal acts,” making it very difficult, if not impossible, to get around.
Disruptions are incredibly rare, however, and usually only take place due to typhoons.
Melanie Sanders, a publishing industry professional from Brooklyn, New York, found the MTR closed when she arrived for a vacation in Hong Kong with her boyfriend on October 5.
It was the couple’s first visit to Asia, and the low price of airfare and hotels made it feasible for them to afford the trip.
Andy Wong/AP
A riot policeman sprays pepper spray at a man as they disperse a crowd during a demonstration against "parallel traders" who buy goods in Hong Kong to resell in mainland China on Sunday, January 5.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
Pro-democracy supporters hold placards as they take part in a New Year's Day rally on Wednesday, January 1 in Hong Kong.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
Pro-democracy supporters wave flags during a countdown party in Tsim Sha Tsui district on New Year's Eve.
Isaac Lawrence/AFP via Getty Images
Police arrive to conduct a clearance operation in the Kowloon district of Hong Kong on December 31.
Isaac Lawrence/AFP via Getty Images
Protesters take photos of a 'Free HK' light display at a gathering in the Central district of Hong Kong on December 30.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
A man is detained by riot police during a demonstration in a shopping mall at Sheung Shui district on December 28.
Philip Fong/AFP via Getty Images
A protester reacts after police fire tear gas to disperse bystanders in the Jordan district of Hong Kong, early on December 25.
Kin Cheung/AP
People celebrating the holidays react to tear gas as police confront protesters on Christmas Eve.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
Protesters march in Hong Kong.
Vincent Thian/AP
Protesters stage a rally outside the US Consulate in Hong Kong on Sunday, December 1. Hundreds gathered Sunday afternoon outside the US Consulate for another pro-US rally to show support for President Trump after he signed the Hong Kong Human Rights and Democracy Act into law.
Philip Fong/AFP/Getty Images
People take part in a march from Tsim Sha Tsui to Hung Hom in Hong Kong on December 1.
Vincent Thian/AP
Pro-democracy candidate Jimmy Sham, right, celebrates with a supporter after winning his election in the Sha Tin district, early November 25. "Today's result represents (my constituency's) support to protesters. The government should immediately establish the Five Demands and respond to the public's voices," Sham posted on Facebook, referencing a long-standing protest slogan.
Vincent Yu/AP
Pro-democracy candidate James Yu hugs his girlfriend after winning his seat in district council elections, early November 25.
Vincent Yu/AP
People line up to vote outside of a polling place in Hong Kong, November 24. More than
2.9 million people turned out to vote in Sunday's elections, which have been framed as a
de facto referendum on the almost six months of ongoing protests.
Kin Cheung/AP
Hong Kong Chief Executive Carrie Lam casts her ballot for the district council elections at a polling place, November 24. In a statement Monday, Lam said her government "respects the election results."
Dale de la Rey/AFP/Getty Images
A group of protesters leave the Hong Kong Polytechnic University holding hands before surrendering to police in the Hung Hom district on November 22.
Vincent Thian/AP
Protesters use clothes and helmets to form "SOS" at Hong Kong Polytechnic University on November 21.
Ng Han Guan/AP
Protesters raise their hands to represent the five demands of pro-democracy demonstrators during a rally in support of the Hong Kong Human Rights and Democracy Act in the U.S., at the IFC Mall in Hong Kong, on November 21.
Nicolas Asfouri/AFP/Getty Images
Tables and chairs piled up to create a barrier are left behind by protesters who barricaded themselves inside the Hong Kong Polytechnic University.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
A Fire Services Department rescue diver prepares to enter the sewage system on November 20 to search for protesters who escaped from the Hong Kong Polytechnic University.
Nicolas Asfouri/AFP/Getty Images
Police detain a group of people after they tried to flee the Hong Kong Polytechnic University campus on November 19. Last week, thousands of student protesters streamed into the
university and occupied the campus as the city's violent political unrest reached fever pitch.
Anthony Wallace/AFP/Getty Images
A protester uses a flashlight while crawling through a sewer tunnel to see how wide it is as he and others try to find an escape route from the Hong Kong Polytechnic University on November 19.
Vincent Yu/AP
A protester walks through a gymnasium at Hong Kong Polytechnic University on November 19.
Vincent Yu/AP
Protesters react as police fire tear gas in the Kowloon area of Hong Kong, Monday, November 18.
Billy H.C. Kwok/Getty Images
Firefighters put out a burning car set on fire by protesters near Hong Kong Polytechnic University in the Tsim Sha Tsui district on November 18.
Ng Han Guan/AP
Police in riot gear move through a cloud of smoke as they detain a protester at the Hong Kong Polytechnic University in Hong Kong on November 18. Police have
attempted to clear the university, which has been occupied by protesters for days as a strategic protest base.
Dale de la Rey/AFP via Getty Images
Police fire tear gas as protesters attempt to leave Hong Kong Polytechnic University via a bridge on November 18.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
A member of the police clashes with a protester at the Hong Kong Poytechnic University on November 18.
Kin Cheung/AP
Protesters use a rope to lower themselves from a pedestrian bridge to waiting motorbikes to escape from police at Hong Kong Polytechnic University on November 18.
Anthony Wallace/AFP via Getty Images
A protester throws an umbrella onto a fire at the barricaded main entrance of Hong Kong Polytechnic University on November 18.
Laurel Chor/Getty Images
An anti-government protester is detained at Hong Kong Polytechnic University on November 18.
Anthony Wallace/AFP/Getty Images
An anti-government protester is showered down by volunteer medical workers after he was soaked by a police water cannons firing pepper spray-infused water at Hong Kong Polytechnic University on November 18.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
Riot police fire tear gas and rubber bullets as protesters attempt to leave Hong Kong Poytechnic University on November 18.
Kin Cheung/AP
A protester prepares to shoot an arrow during a confrontation with police.
ISAAC LAWRENCE/AFP/Getty Images
Police use a water cannon outside the Hong Kong Polytechnic University.
ANTHONY WALLACE/AFP/Getty Images
A protester throws a Molotov cocktail at police on November 17.
ANTHONY WALLACE/AFP/Getty Images
Protesters use a catapult to fire bricks at the police from inside the Hong Kong Polytechnic University on November 17.
Ng Han Guan/AP
A woman tries to hold back riot police from approaching the Hong Kong University in Hong Kong on Saturday.
Miguel Candela/EPA-EFE/Shutterstock
Protesters train to throw Molotov cocktails into a swimming pool on the campus of the Hong Kong Polytechnic University on November 14.
Kin Cheung/AP
Protesters walk past barricades of bricks on a road near the Hong Kong Polytechnic University on November 14.
Vincent Yu/AP
Demonstrators gather during a lunchtime protest in the financial district of Hong Kong on November 14.
Anthony Wallace/AFP via Getty Images
A protester releases a flaming arrow to light a barricade at The Chinese University of Hong Kong (CUHK), Wednesday, November 13.
Anthony Wallace/AFP via Getty Images
A Molotov cocktail, a gas mask and a yellow construction helmet are placed upon a bust of late hotel tycoon Hui Yeung Shing at the campus of The Chinese University of Hong Kong on November 13.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
A fire is seen at a Mass Transit Railway (MTR) station during a demonstration at The Chinese University of Hong Kong on November 13.
AP Photo
Students attempt to clear tear gas canisters fired by riot police onto a sports track during a confrontation at the Chinese University in Hong Kong on Tuesday, November 12.
Philip Fong/AFP/Getty Images
A man is detained during a protest at the Chinese University of Hong Kong on November 12.
Kin Cheung/AP
Students block an escalator with chairs in an attempt to hamper police at the University of Hong Kong on November 12.
Vincent Yu/AP
A protester is detained in the Central District of Hong Kong on November 11.
Anthony Wallace/AFP/Getty Images
People react after tear gas was fired by police during a protest in Hong Kong's Central District on November 11.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
Riot police face off with protesters at an entrance of a shopping mall during a demonstration on November 10.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
A man is helped by a volunteer medic after police used pepper spray during a demonstration on November 10.
Philip Fong/AFP via Getty Images
Students of the Hong Kong University of Science and Technology (HKUST) participate in a march on November 8, after hospital officials confirmed the
death of student Chow Tsz-lok, 22. Police say Chow, a computer sciences student at HKUST, fell from the third floor to the second floor of a parking garage in the residential area of Tseung Kwan O in the early hours of November 4.
Philip Fong/AFP/Getty Images
A person places a flower at a memorial for 22-year-old Hong Kong university student Chow Tsz-lok on November 8.
Billy H.C. Kwok/Getty Images
Students in gas masks are seen during a graduation ceremony at the Chinese University of Hong Kong on Thursday, November 7 in Hong Kong.
Kin Cheung/AP
Firefighters stand outside the offices of China's Xinhua News Agency after its windows were damaged by protesters in Hong Kong on Saturday, November 2. Hong Kong riot police fired multiple rounds of tear gas and used a water cannon Saturday to break up a rally by thousands of masked protesters demanding autonomy after Beijing indicated it could tighten its grip on the Chinese territory.
Vincent Yu/AP
Richard Chan, a candidate for the district council elections, reacts after being pepper-sprayed by police in Hong Kong on November 2.
Kin Cheung/AP
Thousands of black-clad masked protesters streamed into Hong Kong's central shopping district for another rally on November 2.
Kin Cheung/AP
A person dressed as President Donald Trump waves an American flag on a street in Hong Kong on Thursday, October 31, 2019. Hong Kong authorities braced as pro-democracy protesters urged people on Thursday to celebrate Halloween by wearing masks on a march in defiance of a
government ban on face coverings.
Kin Cheung/AP
A man dressed as the Joker for Halloween walks past police officers on October 31.
Anthony Wallace/AFP/Getty Images
Pro-democracy activist Joshua Wong (second from left) and Kelvin Lam (second from right) shout slogans as they meet the media outside the Legislative Council (LegCo) in Hong Kong on October 29, 2019, after Wong was barred from standing in an upcoming local election.
Billy H.C. Kwok/Getty Images
A protester throws a tear gas canister on October 27 in Hong Kong.
Mark Schiefelbein/AP
A couple wearing Guy Fawkes masks watch a rally at Chater Garden in Hong Kong on October 26.
Ivan Cheung/SOPA Images/Getty Images
Protesters start a fire in front of the MTR station during demonstration on October 27.
Vernon Yuen/Getty Images
Tear gas smoke is seen exploding over reporters during an anti-government protest in Mong Kok district in Hong Kong on October 27.
Philip Fong/AFP/Getty Images
High school students take part in a human chain rally outside Kowloon park in Hong Kong on October 25.
Kin Cheung/AP
Police fire blue dye toward protesters in Hong Kong on Sunday, October 20. Blue dye can be used to stain and identify masked protesters.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
A pro-democracy protester is arrested by police on October 20.
Mark Schiefelbein/AP
Pro-democracy lawmakers protest as Hong Kong Chief Executive Carrie Lam delivers a speech at the Legislative Council on Wednesday, October 16. Lam's annual policy address
ended in chaos as pro-democracy lawmakers repeatedly disrupted her speech and heckled her with calls to honor the demands of anti-government protesters.
Anthony Wallace/AFP via Getty Images
A protester shoots a basketball at a poster of Lam during a rally on Tuesday, October 15.
Miguel Candela/SOPA Images/Getty Images
Protesters set fire to a Bank of China branch on Sunday, October 13. It was the 19th consecutive weekend of anti-government protests in Hong Kong.
Felipe Dana/AP
Protesters use the lights on their phones during a rally in central Hong Kong's business district.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
A protester attempts to break a tourist bus window on October 13.
Vincent Yu/AP
Supporters surround a police bus carrying political activist Edward Leung as it leaves the High Court in Hong Kong on Wednesday, October 9. Several hundred masked protesters gathered at Hong Kong's High Court for the appeal hearing of Leung,
who was sentenced to six years in prison for his part in a violent clash with police.
Mohd Rasfan/AFP/Getty Images
A woman is treated after police fired tear gas to disperse protesters in the Mong Kok district of Hong Kong on October 7.
Anthony Wallace/AFP/Getty Images
Pro-democracy protesters gather in a shopping mall on October 7.
Anthony Wallace/AFP/Getty Images
Rescue personnel check the bottom of a taxi after the driver allegedly drove onto the pavement, hitting protesters in Hong Kong on October 6.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
A China Construction Bank is seen vandalized in the Causeway Bay area of Hong Kong on October 6.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
Pro-democracy protesters set fires in the street in the Causeway Bay area.
Laurel Chor/Getty Images
People protest the ban against masks on Saturday, October 5.
Athit Perawongmetha/Reuters
An anti-government protester stands near a fire on Friday, October 4.
Vincent Yu/AP
Protesters move a statue depicting a protester armed with gas mask, helmet and umbrella on the streets of Hong Kong on October 4.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
Protesters set a fire at a China Construction Bank.
Felipe Dana/AP
Protesters spray paint slogans at the entrance to a tunnel on October 4.
Laurel Chor/Getty Images
A store is in shambles after being vandalized by protesters.
Mohd Rasfan/AFPGetty Images
Pro-democracy demonstrators hold up their hands to symbolize their five demands during a rally on October 4.
Marcus Yam/Los Angeles Times via Getty Images
Protesters throw petrol bombs at the gate to the Tsuen Wan police station on Wednesday, October 2.
Mohd Rasfan/AFP/Getty Images
Editorial Board, CityU SU/Reuters
A young protester was shot Tuesday, October 1, as violent protests erupted across Hong Kong on the 70th anniversary of the People's Republic of China. The incident marked a major escalation in violence that could galvanize the protest movement in Hong Kong.
Felipe Dana/AP
Police detain an anti-government protester on October 1. Thousands of black-clad protesters marched in central Hong Kong as part of multiple pro-democracy rallies.
Chris McGrath/Getty Images
Police tackle and arrest pro-democracy protesters during clashes on October 1.
Isaac Lawrence/AFP/Getty Images
Nicolas Asfouri/AFP/Getty Images
Protesters react after police fired tear gas near the central government offices in Hong Kong's Admiralty area on October 1.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
Pro-democracy protesters form a "Pepe the Frog" themed human chain on Monday, September 30.
Philip Fong/AFP/Getty Images
A man is detained by Hong Kong police during a protest in the Causeway Bay shopping district on Sunday, September 29.
Chris McGrath/Getty Images
Bus passengers look at a burning barricade lit by pro-democracy protesters in front of the Mong Kok police station on Sunday, September 22.
Chris McGrath/Getty Images
Pro-democracy protesters sing songs and chant slogans during a rally inside a shopping mall on September 22.
Vincent Yu/AP
A pro-China supporter, center, is escorted by police after confronting journalists in Hong Kong on September 15.
Amr Abdallah Dalsh/Reuters
Pro-government and anti-government supporters chant against one another at a shopping mall in Hong Kong on Friday, September 13. The sign translates to "Stop violence and curb chaos; safeguard Hong Kong."
Kin Cheung/AP
Demonstrators hold up their cell phone lights as they form a human chain at the Peak, a tourist spot in Hong Kong, on September 13.
Kin Cheung/AP
Police escort an injured man after he attacked protesters outside Prince Edward station in Hong Kong on Friday, September 6.
Kin Cheung/AP
Protesters burn paper money to pay their respects to injured protesters.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
Protesters prepare to clash with police outside the Mong Kok police station on September 6.
Tyrone Siu/Reuters
A protester is detained by police at the Po Lam Mass Transit Railway station on Thursday, September 5.
Vincent Yu/AP
A man watches televisions at a store in Hong Kong as Chief Executive Carrie Lam announces the withdrawal of the extradition bill on Wednesday, September 4.
Anushree Fadnavis/Reuters
A woman gets emotional on September 4 while paying her respects to protesters who were injured a few days earlier.
Kyle Lam/Bloomberg/Getty Images
Demonstrators travel through a railway station during a rally on Tuesday, September 3.
AP
Students wearing gas masks and helmets hold a banner that reads "five major demands are indispensable" at St. Francis' Canossian College in Hong Kong.
Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty Images
Protesters gather in the bus terminal at Hong Kong International Airport on Sunday, September 1. Hundreds of pro-democracy activists attempted to block transport routes to the city's airport.
Kin Cheung/AP
A passenger walks to the airport on September 1 as pro-democracy protesters blocked a road outside the airport.
Chris McGrath/Getty Images
A protester uses a slingshot outside the Central Government Complex during clashes with police on Saturday, August 31. Thousands of pro-democracy protesters held an anti-government rally one day after several leading activists and lawmakers were arrested in a sweeping crackdown.
Chris McGrath/Getty Images
Protesters light a Molotov cocktail on August 31.
Kin Cheung/AP
Protesters take cover as policemen fire blue-colored water on them. Blue dye can be used to stain and identify masked protesters.
Jae C. Hong/AP
A surveillance camera is covered with white paint during protests.
ANTHONY WALLACE/AFP/Getty Images
An overhead view shows protesters reacting after police fired tear gas on August 31.
Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty Images
Pro-democracy activists Agnes Chow and Joshua Wong speak to the media after they were released on bail at the Eastern Magistrates Courts on Friday, August 30. They were arrested earlier the same day in a dragnet across Hong Kong.
Billy H.C. Kwok/Getty Images
Protesters clash with police after a rally in Hong Kong's Tsuen Wan district on Sunday, August 25.
It was one of the most violent nights seen in Hong Kong since mass protests began in June.
Lam Yik Fei/The New York Times/Redux Pictures
A police officer aims a gun in front of a protester on August 25.
Kin Cheung/AP
Some protesters shine laser pointers at police lines on August 25.
Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty Images
Protesters pick up bricks to be used as projectiles on August 24.
Chris McGrath/Getty Images
Police retreat after clashing with protesters on August 24.
Philip Fong/AFP/Getty Images
Cell phones shine from the top of Lion Rock on August 23.
Billy H.C. Kwok/Getty Images
Protesters march under umbrellas on Sunday, August 18.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
Tens of thousands of protesters showed up in the streets on August 18.
Vincent Yu/AP
A protester participates in a march on Saturday, August 17. His eye is covered with red gauze, referencing a woman who was allegedly shot in the eye with a beanbag round during clashes between protesters and police.
Vincent Yu/AP
Protesters point lasers at the Sham Shui Po police station on August 14.
Manan Vatsyayana/AFP/Getty Images
A police officer falls over an airport luggage trolley during a scuffle with pro-democracy protesters on Tuesday, August 13. For two days,
protesters flooded the airport. Check-ins were suspended and dozens of outgoing flights were canceled.
Philip Fong/AFP/Getty Images
A traveler passes her luggage to security guards as she tries to enter the departures gate.
Vernon Yuen/NurPhoto via Getty Images
A display board shows canceled flights on August 13.
Anthony Wallace/AFP/Getty Images
Medics look after a woman who received a facial injury during clashes on Sunday, August 11.
Manan Vatsyayana/AFP/Getty Images
A pro-democracy protester is held by police outside the Tsim Sha Tsui police station on August 11.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
Police fire tear gas at protesters during a demonstration in the Wong Tai Sin District on Monday, August 5.
ANTHONY WALLACE/AFP/Getty Images
A train passenger gestures toward a protester, right, who was preventing the doors of a train from closing on August 5. The protester was trying to disrupt Hong Kong's morning rush-hour commute.
Anthony Wallace/AFP/Getty Images
A man comforts his pregnant wife near a train platform after protesters blocked the train doors on August 5.
Elson Li/AP
A protester stands in tear gas during a confrontation with police in the early hours of Sunday, August 4.
Vincent Thian/AP
A Chinese flag floats in water after it was thrown by protesters during a demonstration on Saturday, August 3.
Anthony Wallace/AFP/Getty Images
Members of Hong Kong's medical sector attend a protest in Edinburgh Place on Friday, August 2.
ANTHONY WALLACE/AFP/Getty Images
The emblem on the China Liaison Office is protected by plexiglass during a demonstration on Sunday, July 28.
Eric Tsang/HK01 via AP
A protester flees from baton-wielding police in the Yuen Long district of Hong Kong on Saturday, July 27.
Miguel Candela/SOPA Images/LightRocket via Getty Images
A protester looks through umbrellas during the clashes with police on July 27.
Anthony Wallace/AFP/Getty Images
Travelers watch as protesters rally at Hong Kong's international airport on Friday, July 26.
Chris McGrath/Getty Images
Protesters clash with police on Sunday, July 21.
Bobby Yip/AP
Medical workers help a protester affected by tear gas on July 21.
Philip Fong/AFP/Getty Images
The office of pro-Beijing lawmaker Junius Ho was trashed by protesters in Hong Kong's Tsuen Wan district.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
Police officers use pepper spray to disperse protesters after a rally in the Sheung Shui district on Saturday, July 13.
Tyrone Siu/Reuters
A demonstrator sprays paint inside a chamber at Hong Kong's Legislative Council building, where protesters forced their way in on Monday, July 1.
Ritchie B. Tongo/EPA-EFE/Shutters/Shutterstock
A protester smashes a window of the Legislative Council building.
Kin Cheung/AP
Columns of sunlight are cast on a crowd during the march on July 1.
Kyle Lam/Bloomberg via Getty Images
Helicopters carrying the flags of China and Hong Kong fly over demonstrators on July 1.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
A police officer uses pepper spray during a clash with protesters on July 1.
Kin Cheung/AP
A protester wearing a T-shirt with the word "revolution" walks past an inscription on a road that reads "Long Live HK."
Vivek Prakash/AFP/Getty Images
Police detain protesters near the government headquarters in Hong Kong on July 1.
STR/AFP/Getty Images
An overhead view shows thousands of protesters marching through a Hong Kong street on Sunday, June 16.
Philip Fong/AFP/Getty Images
Protesters run after police fired tear gas on Wednesday, June 12.
Athit Perawongmetha/Reuters
By the morning of June 12, tens of thousands of mainly young people had arrived in the area, blocking streets and bringing central Hong Kong to a standstill.
Dale De La Rey/AFP/Getty Images
A demonstrator holds a sign during the June 12 rally.
Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
Police officers charge toward protesters during clashes on Monday, June 10. It was a continuation of protests that started the day before.
Dale De La Rey/AFP/Getty Images
Protesters on June 9 waved placards and wore white -- the designated color of the rally. "Hong Kong, never give up!" some chanted.
Dale De La Rey/AFP/Getty Images
Students wear chains during a demonstration on Saturday, June 8.
“In the immediate lead-up to the trip I admit I got pretty anxious, especially about the logistics of getting around in the face of MTR closures,” Sanders told CNN Travel.
“Frankly, the airfare was nonrefundable, so that was a pretty good incentive to figure it out,” she said.
She and her boyfriend were able to board the Airport Express, something not all travelers have been able to do. The train has been closed several times this summer and spent several days only shuttling between the airport and Hong Kong Station, skipping three stops in between.
Once visitors arrive at Hong Kong Station, they still have to figure out how to get to their hotels or rental apartments, and some of the intense clashes between riot police and protesters have taken place in popular tourist neighborhoods like Central and Wan Chai on Hong Kong Island and Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon.
With the MTR down, Sanders and her boyfriend took a taxi from Hong Kong Station to their hotel in Causeway Bay. Luckily, as most Hong Kong taxis do not accept credit cards, they had gotten cash from an ATM at the airport.
They were unsure which tourist attractions would be open and accessible. On Sunday, the second day of their visit, they decided to take in the iconic views at the top of Victoria Peak, Hong Kong island’s highest point.
They visited the Peak, as it’s known locally, by bus, but were rerouted on the way back to their hotel because of protests.
Protests are usually organized online, often in Cantonese and on the encrypted messaging app Telegram, so it’s difficult for tourists to know when they’re scheduled.
When they start, authorities have been known to quickly shut down train stations, while buses have been forced to negotiate crowds of protesters before they’ve had a chance to reroute.
The city’s transport infrastructure has also become a target for protesters, who have taken to blocking roads, as well as damaging MTR stations. Trains and buses have also been subject to vandalism.
The majority of protests are “wildcat” meaning they spring up quickly, seemingly without warning, and throughout the week in multiple locations – including tourist areas such as Central and Nathan Road. Consulates in the city recommend following local news broadcasts and police alerts to avoid the demonstrations.
If you do get caught up in a police encounter with protesters, avoid the no-man’s between the two sides as it is the most dangerous place to be.
If police start asking you questions, it’s important to know that Hong Kong law allows police to stop anyone on the street and ask for official identification.
Once Sanders and her boyfriend got to the Peak, it was relatively quiet – a surprise considering it was “Golden Week,” a popular time under normal circumstances for mainland Chinese tourists to visit Hong Kong.
The Peak, with its sweeping views of the city and Victoria Harbour, is normally packed with visitors and one of the most popular spots for tourists in Hong Kong.
However, when Sanders’ visited, lines for the popular Peak Tram that takes visitors on the steep climb up and down the hill, usually an hourslong wait, were fairly short.
The violence appears to have deterred many mainland Chinese from visiting the city, possibly because people who support China fear being targeted by protesters – an increasingly common occurrence in recent weeks.
Travel firm ForwardKeys found that bookings for Golden Week visits to Hong Kong from the mainland were down 39.7% compared to the same period last year.
For those who choose to come, plane tickets and hotel rooms are cheaper and the tourist activities that are open have shorter-than-usual wait times and may not require advance reservations.
However, potential tourists should first check for any travel advisories issued by their own governments. For example, the US has warned its citizens to “exercise increased caution” and Australia told its people to exercise “a high degree of caution.”
Major attractions, including Ocean Park theme park and aquarium, the Hong Kong Zoo and Botanical Gardens, and the Tian Tan Buddha and Po Lin Monastery, as well as the Peak and other public parks all remain open. Disneyland is also open – and this summer was very, very empty.
The Star Ferry, a popular attraction that also serves as a main form of transit between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, has also been running. Rooftop bars are still taking guests, and popular nightlife districts like Wan Chai and Lan Kwai Fong are still hopping, though often emptier than usual.
One other option? Daytripping. Sanders and her boyfriend planned to spend one day sightseeing on nearby Macao, the former Portuguese colony and current gambling destination that is accessible from Hong Kong via ferry and train. There have been no protests there.
The savings and short queues may make it worth it if you aren’t afraid of accidentally running into protests or riot police and can physically get yourself out of the area in an expeditious manner.
You should probably be comfortable with having to adjust plans on the fly and with navigating the city if public transportation fails.
Hong Kong authorities say that “despite recent disruptions, the fundamentals and institutional underpinning of our economy and society are strong.
“We remain a safe, open and cosmopolitan society and an internationally connected, vibrant, and dynamic economy,” reads a press release on the Brand HK website, which is run and maintained by the city government.
“Hong Kong is such a beautiful, vibrant city, and it’s clear the protesters care about it deeply. To be here right now is to be experiencing history, and I wouldn’t trade the experience I’ve had here for anything.”