Connecting Brunei … with Brunei: Will this bridge change the sultanate forever?

Proboscis monkeys, flying foxes, waterfalls, and sunrise canopy walks – the remote region of Temburong, in Brunei, is a natural wonderland.

But separated from Brunei’s main region by a slice of Malaysia, it isn’t the easiest place to reach.

In 2019, an 18.6-mile (30 kilometer) viaduct will change that by connecting this forested exclave of Brunei to the mainland.

Once built, it will reduce the journey time to the region to 20 minutes by car.

“We have to prepare for an influx of tourists,” Leslie Chiang, founder of Brunei-based tour company Borneo Guide and Sumbiling Eco Village, tells CNN.

A country divided

Located on Borneo island, Brunei has two main regions, which are separated by Malaysia’s Sarawak.

That dividing sliver of land was controlled by Brunei until 1885, when the then sultan offered the region to Charles Brooke, the nephew of James Brooke – an English explorer who had helped crush regional rebellions and piracy.

Known as the “White Rajahs,” Brooke and his family ruled Sarawak until World War II.

During that war, Japan took control of the region. It was later ceded to Britain, then became independent in 1963. That year, the territory elected to become part of Malaysia.

“In the early 1970s there was talk about getting back that piece of land so that Brunei would be connected, but due to politics – the (then) sultan … wanted to be good a neighbor with Malaysia – we did not proceed,” explains Chiang.

To resolve the issue, Brunei has contracted the China State Construction Engineering Corporation (CSCEC) to build a bridge between Bandar Seri Begawan and Bangar.

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Expected to finish in November 2019, the Temburong Bridge project broke ground in January 2016 and its total cost is estimated to be $1.6 billion.

A green venture

Blessed with oil and natural gas, Brunei was the world’s fifth richest country in 2016, with a GPD (PPP) of $79,710, according Global Finance magazine.

Furthermore, its royal family is one of the wealthiest in the world – Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah is thought to sit on a $20 billion fortune, according to Forbes.

Consequently, the sultanate hasn’t faced economic pressure to pursue logging or develop palm oil plantations in its 140-million-year-old Borneo jungle, as have its neighbors Malaysia and Indonesia.

Courtesy 1Stop Brunei

In the northeast corner of Borneo, an island off the southeast coast of Asia, lies the tiny kingdom of Brunei. It may be a small country, with a population of just over 400,000, but there's an excellent reason for travelers to make a stop there: its rainforests are home to some of the animal kingdom's rarest creatures, many of which can only be found in the region.

A wonder to behold, their scarcity also means they're not always easy to find. Some of Brunei's wildlife is so precious that conservationists take care not to share detailed locations of animal sightings or typical habitats such as steaming waterfalls and shallow streams to ensure the safety of the animals.

Here are 10 of Brunei's most amazing animals, which any wildlife tourist should consider themselves privileged to see.

Courtesy 1Stop Brunei

One such species is this creative little amphibian, who has figured out how to hide from predators by blending into its surroundings. Its shape and color have evolved to look just like the dead leaves on the forest floor. Sometimes also called the long-nosed frog, it has a pointed snout and what look like horns on its head, also part of the camouflage. This comes in handy when hiding in the undergrowth to catch its prey. The species is endemic to Borneo says Muhammad Shavez from 1StopBrunei, a group of local conservationists and eco-tourism operators.

Courtesy 1Stop Brunei

Due to the way it holds its front legs together as if saying prayers, this insect is named after the Greek word mantis which means prophet or fortune teller. Hardly a picky eater, the carnivorous mantis feasts primarily on other insects, but has been known to eat small reptiles, mammals and even other mantids, especially after mating, when females may decide to eat their partners.

Courtesy 1Stop Brunei

Brightly colored and venomous, this snake is a patient predator and can stay put for weeks on end as it waits for the perfect opportunity to snatch its prey -- usually birds or rodents, according to 1Stop Brunei.

Courtesy 1Stop Brunei

A paradise for lovers of the natural world, nearly three quarters of Brunei lies under a dense layer of tropical rainforest. While deforestation and habitat loss is a problem in rainforests around the world, and other parts of Borneo, Brunei has made efforts to preserve its flora and fauna, says Shavez. "Brunei has preserved 70% of its forest, and 58% is legally protected because of the Heart of Borneo Initiative." The Heart of Borneo Initiative is a joint effort by the governments of Brunei, Indonesia and Malaysia, who in 2007 initiated a joint declaration to protect the Borneo's biodiversity through creating protected areas and promoting sustainability on the island.

Courtesy 1Stop Brunei

The pangolin, one of the most poached animals in the world, also live here. There are eight species of pangolins in total -- four in Africa and four in Asia -- and all are either endangered or critically endangered. Habitat loss and illegal wildlife trade are among reasons for some of its decline.

Courtesy 1Stop Brunei

The small scaly anteater curls up when frightened. It looks a little like an armadillo and feeds exclusively on ants and termites. In traditional Chinese medicine It is sold as an alternative to rhino horns and elephant tusks as its scales are considered to have similar properties.

Courtesy 1Stop Brunei

A rare sight, but perhaps that's for the best. These beasts have been known to leap out of the water and attack humans. It is found across Borneo in the brackish waters along the coast, as well as tidal rivers, swamps and marshes inland. "It's the worlds longest and largest crocodile," says Shaves. "It can grow up to 7 metres long and pray on fish, proboscis monkeys, and anything it can grab onto."

Alex Ogle/AFP/Getty Images

One of the area's most unique creatures is the endangered proboscis monkey who thrives in the swampy mangrove forests and can only be found on Borneo -- munching on fruit, leaves and the odd caterpillar.

Courtesy 1Stop Brunei

Though perhaps odd-looking to humans, the males use their long, bulbous noses to attract and impress females, and they live in harem groups of one male and up to seven females. Their webbed feet make them excellent swimmers and they like to spend most of their time near water.

Mandy Cheng/AFP/Getty

The mighty Sunda clouded leopard can only be found in Sumatra and Borneo. Their numbers are decreasing in Brunei and spotting them in the wild has become very challenging, says Lin Ji Liaw, President of BruWild, a conservation group working in the area. They are distinguished by the cloud-like patches on their fur and the largest canine fangs relative to their bodies in any living cat species. Despite the name they are of a separate genus to leopards and other large cats like panthers and tigers. They are camera-shy predators and the one pictured lives at Taipei Zoo.

Courtesy 1Stop Brunei

A stopover for many long-distance migratory birds and seasonal visitors from northern Asia, the forests are home to some spectacular bird species. The rhinoceros hornbill, pictured, is one of eight hornbill species found on the island. Populations are in decline due to habitat loss and poaching leading to local extinction in some areas.

Courtesy 1Stop Brunei

The helmeted hornbill, pictured, is particularly threatened because of the ivory on its head, says Shavez. "They are being killed in hundreds on Borneo. We don't have a serious problem with poaching in Brunei yet, but the problem is that it's a very small country, so even if you take one out, it disturbs the ecosystem."

Courtesy 1Stop Brunei

This mysterious mammal is actually a bat, although as the name suggests, it's so big it looks more like a dog or fox with wings flying amongst the treetops. But fear not. Despite wingspans of up to five and a half feet, fortunately it's herbivorous. They can travel long distances and are important pollinators of the forest plants, Shavez explains. "They are like the bees of the night and very important for the ecosystem."

Courtesy 1Stop Brunei

This tiny fella may look sweet, but beware, it is poisonous and capable of giving you a nasty bite. Unfortunately it may be a little too cute for its own good, and is in demand on the illegal pet trading market, according to conservationists working in the area.

Courtesy 1Stop Brunei

The pint-sized primate is nocturnal and has the longest tongue of all the primates, which they use to drink nectar from flowers. Now endangered, they are among the rarest primates on earth, having diverged from African bushbabies around 40 million years ago.
Although these forests' wildlife is under threat, there is hope. Brunei has recently begun to promote ecotourism, which could incentivize stronger conservation efforts in the area, if managed well, says Liaw, which will hopefully mean a brighter future for its fascinating animals.

But in recent years, declining oil prices have inspired a new focus on tourism.

“The bridge is part of the sultanate’s efforts to diversify the economy and end over-reliance on hydrocarbons,” Patrick Cooke, regional editor of Oxford Business Group, tells CNN.

“It’s hoped that the bridge will open the region up to further international tourism and investment.”

By 2020, the Ministry of Primary Resources and Tourism hopes to have increased tourist arrivals in Brunei from 218,000 in 2015 to 450,000 by 2020, under its 2016-2020 Strategic Plan.

“Temburong is expected to play a big role in the fulfillment of this plan,” says Cooke.

The challenge, he explains, is to ensure the new bridge creates economic opportunities without sacrificing the area’s natural beauty.

Eco credentials

Brunei is well-positioned for a niche eco-tourism market, given that 70% of the sultanate is covered in raw rainforest.

At least 55% of the country’s total land area has been declared protected, according to the Forestry Department.

“We can only pursue eco-tourism (in Brunei). We can’t afford to have mass tourism – it will destroy the place,” says Chiang.

“Luckily, the government also focuses on eco-tourism. They’d rather have not many people come, but quality travelers who appreciate the nature and the culture.”

A few resorts catering to environmentally conscious travelers already operate in the area.

Located inside Ulu Temburong National Park Rainforest, the 17-room Ulu Ulu Resort, run in partnership with the government, opened in 2008.

It focuses on environmentally friendly practices, such as composting, recycling, tending an organic garden, and plastic-free amenities.

There are no TVs or screens to distract you from connecting with nature – though Wi-Fi is available on request.

Meanwhile, Chiang’s Sumbiling Eco Village located along the Temburong River employs local villagers to work at the hotel and lead rainforest tours, implements a reduce-and-recycle program to minimize waste, and sources local food whenever possible.

The hotel aims to be completely solar-powered by the end of 2020.

Chiang says visitors love the sense of peace at the eco village.

“It’s surrounded by fruit trees, like durian, and I planted a lot to attract birds that live in the jungle – like hornbills, which come to look for fruits when they’re in season.

“Imagine waking up in the morning with 20 or 30 birds chirping all at once.”

David Kirkland/Newscom

Named after Brunei's 28th sultan, the Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddien mosque overlooks a picturesque lagoon. Built in 1958, it features Italian marble, chandeliers flown in from England, and a gold-leaf dome.

David Kirkland/Newscom

The capital of Brunei might be the tiny sultanate's largest city but it's still very low-key compared with other Southeast Asian capitals. Travelers can expect low-rise buildings, gardens, mosques and waterside promenades.

LUONG THAI LINH/EPA/Redux

Opened in the 1960s, Kianggeh Market is one of the country's largest and most popular markets. Among the hundreds of stalls, travelers will find a wide range of fresh fruits, local vegetables and seafood.

LUONG THAI LINH/EPA/Redux

The market also offers a taste of traditional Brunei snacks. Here, a woman makes an apam balik pancake, a sweet, buttery concoction full of peanuts.

Li Peng/Xinhua/Newscom

Located along the Brunei River, Kampong Ayer is the world's largest water village, home to about 30,000 residents.

Tim Graham/Robert Harding/Newscom

Also known as the Kiarong mosque, this impressive structure was finished in 1994. It comprises 29 gold domes and gorgeous gardens.

Mark Cuthbert/UK Press/Getty Images

Home to the Sultan of Brunei, the Istana Nurul Iman is the world's largest residential palace, with 1,788 rooms, five pools and a helipad.

David Kirkland/Newscom

One of Brunei's most prestigious hotels, The Empire Hotel and Country Club is famous for its beachfront address, old-world atmosphere, and extensive gold facilities.

Worries for the future

Even the eco-tourism market will need to be carefully managed to prevent the bridge from negatively impacting the jungle, says Cooke.

“It would be wise to set aside a portion of the profits generated from eco-tourism for conservation projects that demonstrate the sultanate’s commitment to preserving one of the world’s last great wildernesses,” he says.

He points to the Ministry of Development’s proposal to build an “eco town” within the district as a possible source of income.

“We had some concerns at the beginning of the development about dredging and pollution of the Brunei Bay, but that has been mitigated,” Fahim Ibrahim, the vice president of Brunei-based environmental NGO Biodiversity and Natural History Society, says of the project.

“The government has been respectful of the forest and has carefully followed the environmental impact studies to minimize impact.”

Ibrahim says the Brunei government reassured environmental groups that it is not open to proposals for large-scale facilities that might disturb the jungle environment.

“They have opened some land for small-scale eco tourism accommodations, like glamping sites, but no massive resorts,” adds Ibrahim.

“These will be places where you experience the real forest.”

Bridging the gap

It is important to remember that the bridge, Ibrahim says, will do more than simply facilitate tourism.

“The bridge is key to to connecting Brunei – it’s opening up two different communities in Brunei and bringing us together as a nation for the first time,” says Ibrahim.

“We have two years to prepare and figure out how to increase carrying capacity to what it should be, without compromising on our environment,” Anthony Chieng, managing director of Ulu Ulu Resort and Sunshine Borneo Tours & Travel, tells CNN.

“Humans are the worst, you know – we always think of ourselves first, sadly.”

“We have a pristine jungle and that is our treasure for the future.”