Courtesy National Museums Scotland
The mantua was worn for court occasions and was designed to be a luxurious garment, often decorated with opulent embroidery incorporating gold or silver thread, to display status and wealth. This example, brocaded in gold and trimmed with gilt lace, is thought to have belonged to the Countess of Haddington.
It is particularly interesting to the contemporary eye not only for its extravagance -- the fabric alone would cost the equivalent of around £5,000 ($7,200) today -- but for its sheer enormity.
It is particularly interesting to the contemporary eye not only for its extravagance -- the fabric alone would cost the equivalent of around £5,000 ($7,200) today -- but for its sheer enormity.
Courtesy National Museums Scotland
These shoes were once thought to have belonged to Mary Queen of Scots, although they have since been dated to nearly a century later. The slap sole was initially used on men's shoes to prevent their heels sinking into the mud; women's shoemakers caught on and they were adopted as a fashion accessory in the second half of the century.
The distinctive clacking sound they made (the sole was only attached to the ball of the foot and not the heel) was associated with wealth and sophistication.
The distinctive clacking sound they made (the sole was only attached to the ball of the foot and not the heel) was associated with wealth and sophistication.
Courtesy National Museums Scotland
This silk velvet suit was for a little boy, and may have belonged to the son of Thomas Hamilton, 7th Earl of Haddington.
Children's dress at this time is particularly interesting as until the late 18th century, children of the upper classes were dressed to imitate their parents. Seeing the extravagant adult male fashions of the mid-18th century in miniature is fascinating.
It's hard for us to imagine today, but it wasn't until the time of the Enlightenment that children's dress emerged as a distinct type.
Children's dress at this time is particularly interesting as until the late 18th century, children of the upper classes were dressed to imitate their parents. Seeing the extravagant adult male fashions of the mid-18th century in miniature is fascinating.
It's hard for us to imagine today, but it wasn't until the time of the Enlightenment that children's dress emerged as a distinct type.
Courtesy National Museums Scotland
The 19th century is a fascinating period in fashion history, as styles change more quickly and seem to vary from one extreme to another.
The crinoline stands out as a notable example, but as the outline of fashionable dress changed to become more streamlined in the 1870s, the bustle -- or "dress improver" -- became a separate garment.
This fashionable day dress is cut in the "princess style" -- the bodice is cut continuous with the skirt -- and the fullness is gathered at the back in a waterfall of drapery. There is a real romance to this style of dress, which features in some of the most famous Impressionist paintings of the period, by Manet and Renoir.
The crinoline stands out as a notable example, but as the outline of fashionable dress changed to become more streamlined in the 1870s, the bustle -- or "dress improver" -- became a separate garment.
This fashionable day dress is cut in the "princess style" -- the bodice is cut continuous with the skirt -- and the fullness is gathered at the back in a waterfall of drapery. There is a real romance to this style of dress, which features in some of the most famous Impressionist paintings of the period, by Manet and Renoir.
Courtesy National Museums Scotland
In the 1920s, Jeanne Lanvin became known for her robe de style with its full pannier hips, and her trademark use of intricate trimming and embroideries in light floral colors.
In an example of successful brand marketing, the illustrator Paul Iribe sketched Jeanne and her daughter both wearing a dress in this style, and the image has been used as the logo for the house since 1927.
We acquired this dress recently from a vintage haute couture specialist in London to enable us to tell this story. It offers an eye-catching contrast to the androgynous flapper style that we usually associate with the decade.
In an example of successful brand marketing, the illustrator Paul Iribe sketched Jeanne and her daughter both wearing a dress in this style, and the image has been used as the logo for the house since 1927.
We acquired this dress recently from a vintage haute couture specialist in London to enable us to tell this story. It offers an eye-catching contrast to the androgynous flapper style that we usually associate with the decade.
Courtesy National Museums Scotland
Known in America as "The King of Fashion", and in Paris as "Le Magnifique," Poiret's revolutionary designs allegedly freed women from corsetry and the rigid hourglass silhouette of the Belle Epoque.
He is renowned today for his exotic Eastern-inspired silhouettes, and for introducing controversial trends such as the hobble skirt, which narrowed towards the hem, shackling the legs and restricting the wearer's movement.
As a designer who is credited with developing the blueprint of the modern fashion industry, we were thrilled to acquire this piece at auction for the new displays.
He is renowned today for his exotic Eastern-inspired silhouettes, and for introducing controversial trends such as the hobble skirt, which narrowed towards the hem, shackling the legs and restricting the wearer's movement.
As a designer who is credited with developing the blueprint of the modern fashion industry, we were thrilled to acquire this piece at auction for the new displays.
Courtesy National Museums Scotland
We acquired this piece at auction specifically for the new "Fashion and Style" gallery.
Elsa Schiaparelli is a pivotal figure in fashion history, and is particularly important to the story of Frances Farquharson, an editor at Vogue and Harper's Bazaar in the late 1920s and 30s whose wardrobe features in the new gallery.
This jacket is from the period that represents the height of Schiaparelli's creativity, when she was collaborating with the surrealist artists Jean Cocteau, Salvador Dali and Leonor Fini. This is thought to have been a favorite design of Schiaparelli's, as she wore a near-identical jacket for her famous portrait by the photographer Horst P. Horst for Vogue.
Elsa Schiaparelli is a pivotal figure in fashion history, and is particularly important to the story of Frances Farquharson, an editor at Vogue and Harper's Bazaar in the late 1920s and 30s whose wardrobe features in the new gallery.
This jacket is from the period that represents the height of Schiaparelli's creativity, when she was collaborating with the surrealist artists Jean Cocteau, Salvador Dali and Leonor Fini. This is thought to have been a favorite design of Schiaparelli's, as she wore a near-identical jacket for her famous portrait by the photographer Horst P. Horst for Vogue.
Courtesy National Museums Scotland
Jacques Fath is one of the designers credited with contributing to the rebirth of haute couture during its Golden Age following the Second World War. It's particularly significant for the fact that it dates from around 1948, after Dior's New Look of 1947 had changed the course of fashion but while clothing restrictions were still in force in Britain due to rationing.
The gown represents the height of luxury for this period, and its glamorous associations are the focus of our section on film fashion, since Ava Gardner, Greta Garbo and Rita Hayworth were avid fans of Fath's work.
The gown represents the height of luxury for this period, and its glamorous associations are the focus of our section on film fashion, since Ava Gardner, Greta Garbo and Rita Hayworth were avid fans of Fath's work.
Courtesy National Museums Scotland
Paco Rabanne's first haute couture collection, titled "12 unwearable dresses in contemporary materials," catapulted him into the limelight as one of the first designers to move beyond the idea that garments should be made only from fabric.
His futuristic designs broke with the tradition of couture and are remembered as some of the most iconic fashions of the 1960s. His chain-linked, armor-plated metal mini dresses and tunics caused a sensation and were famously worn by Jane Fonda in Barbarella and by Audrey Hepburn in Two for the Road.
His futuristic designs broke with the tradition of couture and are remembered as some of the most iconic fashions of the 1960s. His chain-linked, armor-plated metal mini dresses and tunics caused a sensation and were famously worn by Jane Fonda in Barbarella and by Audrey Hepburn in Two for the Road.
Courtesy National Museums Scotland
The internationally successful British fashion designer Jean Muir created couture-quality ready-to-wear designs. With her superlative cutting and use of luxurious fabrics, Muir excelled in making technically complex designs that appeared simple, such as this butter-soft nappa leather dress.
In 2005, National Museums Scotland was fortunate to acquire her archive of an estimated 18,000 items. This piece is a favourite of mine as it is typical of the timeless, feminine designs that made her popular with so many high-profile clients, including her former house model Joanna Lumley.
In 2005, National Museums Scotland was fortunate to acquire her archive of an estimated 18,000 items. This piece is a favourite of mine as it is typical of the timeless, feminine designs that made her popular with so many high-profile clients, including her former house model Joanna Lumley.
Courtesy National Museums Scotland
One of the most influential avant-garde designers of the 1980s, Rei Kawakubo is renowned for exploring the boundaries of clothing and we therefore just had to represent her work in the "Cutting Edge" section of the gallery.
This sample garment for her landmark "Bump" collection plays with the space between the fabric and the contours of the body. Lightly padded and reinforced with tulle to hold its curves, it critiques the notion of there being one ideal female shape. It's a fantastic piece for us to have on display in a gallery where body image is also a central theme.
This sample garment for her landmark "Bump" collection plays with the space between the fabric and the contours of the body. Lightly padded and reinforced with tulle to hold its curves, it critiques the notion of there being one ideal female shape. It's a fantastic piece for us to have on display in a gallery where body image is also a central theme.
Courtesy National Museums Scotland
Leading British milliner Stephen Jones is considered one of the most important and radical milliners of our times. As the "go-to" man for statement-making hats, his pieces have won favor with everyone from Boy George and Diana, Princess of Wales to fashion industry greats like Jean Paul Gaultier and Marc Jacobs.
Jones once declared the lyrical spiral design of the satin rose on this top hat as his favorite design, so we were very excited to purchase this at auction for our visitors to see up close.
Jones once declared the lyrical spiral design of the satin rose on this top hat as his favorite design, so we were very excited to purchase this at auction for our visitors to see up close.
Courtesy National Museums Scotland
Scotland's rich textile history has put it firmly on the international fashion map and it is particularly important for us to showcase fashion designers whose collections celebrate Scottish heritage fabrics. Vivienne Westwood stands out for her love of traditional British clothing, and her use of tartan and tweed. Handwoven in the Outer Hebrides and exported to over 50 countries worldwide, Harris Tweed is the only fabric in the world protected by its own legislation, designated with the iconic Orb Registered Certification Trademark.
Courtesy Anya Caliendo
When we approached New York-based milliner Anya Caliendo for a hat for our "Cutting Edge" section, we were thrilled when she decide to create a bespoke piece especially for us. It was inspired by the culture of Caliendo's native Russia, created in the style of a traditional Russian headdress.
This hand-made piece incorporates unique millinery techniques without using a single machine stitch or drop of glue, and took over three weeks to complete. The use of Italian shimmering gold silk, French flocked lace and Swarovski pearls and crystals helps to create an impression of early spring in Russia, as the first signs of nature push up through a covering of snow.
This hand-made piece incorporates unique millinery techniques without using a single machine stitch or drop of glue, and took over three weeks to complete. The use of Italian shimmering gold silk, French flocked lace and Swarovski pearls and crystals helps to create an impression of early spring in Russia, as the first signs of nature push up through a covering of snow.
Editor’s Note: Georgina Ripley is Curator of Modern & Contemporary Fashion & Textiles at the National Museum of Scotland. The opinions expressed here are solely her own.
CNN
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This summer, the National Museum of Scotland is receiving the most dramatic face-lift in its 150-year history.
The Edinburgh institution is set to open 10 new galleries, comprising 3,000 of the 12 million objects in its collection, as part of an £14.1 million ($20 million) plan to rejuvenate the gallery and position it as a major player on the world stage.
Among the exciting additions – 75 percent of which haven’t been seen for generations – are rare pieces from the museum’s extensive fashion collection.
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Ahead of their July 8 unveiling, Georgina Ripley, Curator of Modern & Contemporary Fashion & Textiles, guides us through the most visually stunning and historically impressive garments hidden in the museum’s archives.