Spanning London, Florence, Paris and Milan – and even a branch of McDonald’s – the runways of men’s fashion season have been full of surprises.
Over the last three weeks, the world’s leading menswear designers unveiled their Spring-Summer 2020 creations through a Europe-wide schedule of shows and presentations. And in addition to the usual assortment of streetwear and classic tailoring, their collections were rich with innovation, from inflatable clothing to recycled textiles.
Memorable moments
Arsenal defender Héctor Bellerín, who British Vogue dubbed “football’s most stylish player” in March, took his well-known love of fashion to new heights in Paris, walking the runway at Louis Vuitton. The Spaniard wore an embossed fushcia hoodie and matching shorts by artistic director Virgil Abloh.
Vetements – under the leadership of creative director Demna Gvasalia – engineered the ultimate high-low collaboration, hosting its show in a Parisian McDonald’s.
Taking things a step further, Gvasalia showed outfits inspired by the uniforms worn by security guards and managers, and a few models ate fries while they walked down the runway. In an additional flourish, show notes were printed on napkins.
The most transcendent concept, however, was conceived by University of Westminster student San Kim, who showed a collection of inflatable garments in London. One model walked in what seemed to be a transparent balloon suit. (A pair of white boxer shorts kept things PG.)
During Pitti Uomo in Florence, Clare Waight Keller, perhaps best known for designing the wedding dress worn by Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, debuted her first full menswear collection for Givenchy at the lush Villa Palmieri.
This season, Waight Keller was inspired by 19th-century French poet Charles Baudelaire’s floral book covers, traditional French tapestry-making and, in an unexpected twist, contemporary Seoul street style. Models kept their louche tailoring and streetwear-inspired pieces casual with sneakers.
British designer Craig Green drew from similarly diverse sources of inspiration this season, including Mexican “papel picado” (perforated paper flags) and Egyptian burial rituals, at London Fashion Week Men’s.
At the same event, Bethany Williams, who won the Queen Elizabeth II Award For British Design, showed a sustainable collection made exclusively from recycled and organic textiles.
In Paris, Kenzo designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon staged their final show with the French luxury fashion house, after eight years at the helm. Models walked to a musical score by Solange, and the collection – with neoprene suits and mermaid-esque touches – was inspired by Japanese ama, or female free divers.
And over at the Celine show, creative director Hedi Slimane, known for his love of skinny silhouettes, sent models down the runway in slim-cut blazers and 70s-style flares.
Scroll through the gallery above for a selection of memorable runway looks.