Marissa Miller/CNN Underscored

Like half the internet, I’ve spent the last couple years hemming and hawing as to whether I should invest in the Always Pan from Our Place. Between its multiuse construction, gorgeous aesthetic and unbeatable nonstick properties, it sounded like the ideal addition to my weeknight cookware arsenal.

With the release of the brand’s newest 2.0 version this April, I finally got the opportunity to test it out. Here’s exactly what I thought, including whether it might be a worthy addition to your kitchen.

The redesigned Always Pan 2.0 improves on its predecessor with new stovetop-to-oven capabilities, a longer-lasting nontoxic, nonstick coating and a 100% recycled aluminum body and lid.

What is the Always Pan 2.0?

Like its predecessor released in 2019, the Always Pan 2.0 does it all — it stir-fries, sautés, steams, strains, sears, fries, bakes and more. At around 3 pounds with a 2.6-quart capacity, it’s designed to take up far less space in your kitchen cabinet, yet it’s still big enough to, say, roast an entire chicken. It’s made of a postconsumer recycled aluminum body for even heat distribution and has a stainless steel handle that stays cool to the touch during operation. The included beechwood spatula is designed to sit right on the handle sandwiched between the included strainer and lid, and it’s compatible with all cooktops (induction included!).

Marissa Miller/CNN Underscored

Unlike the 1.0, this newer version is safe for use in the oven up to 450 degrees Fahrenheit, it performs 10 functions as opposed to the previous eight and it boasts a new and improved aluminum nonstick surface that’s made of postconsumer recycled waste and thus more sustainable than the original.

The Always Pan 2.0 retails for $150 a pop (a small jump from the previous $145), but the brand is really good about seasonal sales like this one that currently lists it as $35 off. It comes in eight matte colors that are stunning enough to show off on your countertops from Sage to Lavender (my favorite), making it something any giftee would be thrilled to unbox. With those kinds of specs, we can similarly foresee this iteration selling out 30 times over like its predecessor, leaving 60,000 desperate home cooks on a waitlist, forever refreshing their carts.

What I liked about it

I’m currently in the honeymoon phase with my Always Pan 2.0, so virtually everything it did impressed me like a baby taking its first step. I’m used to my cast iron, which takes a year and a day to reach its ideal temperature, so I loved how this heated up evenly in well under five minutes. With only a splash of high heat-compatible oil, I ogled as I watched my omelet slip ’n slide around the edges of the pan with not a single snag in sight. My chef husband and I agreed it was single-handedly the best omelet we’d ever tasted, and we credit that largely to how evenly the bottom of the pan cooked the eggs and how effectively the lid locked in moisture to create a fluffy and moist consistency I’ve yet to experience at a diner.

The pan’s design is undoubtedly smart. The included bamboo spatula ensures you keep any sharp metal utensils far away from its delicate nonstick coating, and its included slot helps keep your stovetop organized and free of splatter while cooking. I’m in my colander era, and while the steamer basket doesn’t seem to benefit me in any meaningful way, I’m obsessed with the fact that it features strainer holes to ensure your entire meal stays intact from stovetop to serving. This was the case when I steamed broccoli and managed to retain those little buds that inevitably float off each mini floret like dust in the wind — it has officially become my new favorite way to cook broccoli since it eliminates the need for additional oil and cleanup becomes a breeze.

Marissa Miller/CNN Underscored

The 2.7-inch depth of the pan with curved edges has really allowed me to up my sauce game. When we designed a Mediterranean-inspired tilapia (we don’t use recipes in this house — it’s a “vibes only” type of situation), we got to play around with a creamier lemon-based sauce than if we were to use our standard pan. This yielded a far more satisfying bite and a moister piece of fish that also — as the pan prides itself on — required fewer pans all around.

Now for the nonstick coating: The brand says it’s free of PTFEs, PFOAs and PFAS as well as any other potentially toxic materials like lead and cadmium, which I appreciate as an alternative to other nonstick coatings that may, once it’s too late, yield unsavory side effects on the planet and human health. Given how not a single remnant of food got left behind in the several dishes I used to cook with it, I’d say it’s really what makes the Always Pan 2.0 stand out as a worthy investment.

What I didn’t like about it

I struggle to feel at ease cooking with nonstick cookware because you really have to baby it, and that rings true for the Always Pan. I prefer to cook on high heat because I love how a little bit of char or browning maximizes flavor, but that was tough — if not impossible — to achieve here. You should really keep the Always Pan on low to medium heat, meaning cooking times will likely be higher and less satisfying than you’re used to. When cooking a bolognese sauce, I wasn’t able to char the ground meat and then deglaze it with wine or stock like I usually do since I was confined to lower cooking temps. While the finished product turned out divine, it lacked that depth of flavor I usually accomplish by searing.

Additionally, the brand suggests avoiding heating up the pan while it’s empty. Any chef will tell you this generally goes against the laws of flavor science, as you should really be heating your pan before adding your fats so as to prevent them from sticking or breaking down prematurely.

Marissa Miller/CNN Underscored

Next, cleanup is a bit dicey because I know I should be doing the absolute minimum in order to preserve its nonstick coating. Our tester for the original Always Pan received a special dehydrated sponge and I did not, so I nervously had to go with what I had, which was the soft side of a somewhat abrasive sponge and a microscopic amount of dish soap. After cleaning up a pan full of oily Korean dumplings once the pan had cooled down, a thin film remained on its surface, which is probably a good thing from a functional perspective, but worries me from a hygienic one. If I wanted to keep my pan “preseasoned” with a film, I’d stick to my trusty Lodge Cast-Iron Skillet that can take far more of a beating from a temperature standpoint — and also costs about $100 less than the Always Pan.

Finally, much of the Always Pan’s allure certainly lies in its marketing. Sure, it contains a steamer basket, which is nice, but you can easily steam your proteins, vegetables and starches on the pan’s surface itself, and use the lid and spout to drain any excess water. The brand bills the pan as being lightweight, which is true if you’re a bodybuilder. At 3 pounds for the pan itself, which doesn’t include the multiple pounds of food you’re cooking on it, one-handed operation is a challenge and likely dangerous once it’s heated up. The lid adds yet another pound, meaning you’ll be working with upward of several pounds during any given meal. Don’t be a hero — stick to two hands, and you’ll be just fine.

Bottom line

The Always Pan 2.0 will always have a place in my heart for how evenly it cooks everything from eggs to veggies and one-pot meals, and how it’s objectively the most beautiful piece of cookware I own. But if you’ve already got a cabinet full of cookware you use and love, this might take up additional space and serve as, well, a waste of money.

However, if you’re unsure of what to gift that new college grad, the new homeowner building their kitchen inventory from scratch or a friend or family member who’s always pining over the New Cool Thing in kitchenware, the Always Pan 2.0 is sure to win you some serious brownie points, many of which, if you’re lucky, they may bake for you in said pan.