Nowadays, a proper routine to achieve the cleanest, closest shave — one that won’t leave your skin stripped or full of nicks and scratches — seems to be a relic of the past. Most men simply don’t have enough time (or, more importantly, the proper tools and products) to achieve a barber shop-style shave in the comfort of their own homes.
But with dozens of products available, from manual razors and electric trimmers to moisturizing shave creams and gels, a freshly-shaven mug is only a few steps away. Below, we consulted men’s grooming experts and veteran barbers for their top tips and a fail-proof guide to achieve the closet, cleanest shave.
Prepare and hydrate the skin
As with any part of your grooming regimen, it’s important to begin the shaving process by properly preparing and hydrating your skin. Thoroughly washing the face at the start of your routine will remove any excess dirt or debris that builds up on your beard, leaving you with a fresh, blank canvas.
“Preparation is just as important to the shave as having a sharp razor. Keeping the face warm and clean will lead to a smooth shave and fool-proof after care,” explains Jake Murphy, senior barber and manager at Ruffians Covent Garden. Murphy notes that it’s also important to get under the surface of your beard during this step to ensure it’s properly cleaned heading into your shave.
Hazlitt swears by this alcohol-free pre-shave lotion that features shea butter and aloe vera — both of which not only hydrate the skin, but also cleanse it from bacteria that could potentially cause acne or inflammation.
Celebrity barber Chaz Hazlitt recommends using a gentle cleanser like Jaxon Lane’s Shake and Wake, and even a serum or pre-shave oil, like the Jaxon Lane Super Serum, after (before applying shave cream or gel) to “provide a light protective layer on the skin.”
Duncan Bailey, Reuzel shaving expert, recommends the brand’s beard serum which is made from natural ingredients. Bailey says his clients enjoy the serum’s smell which is a light blend of mint and citrus.
Apply shaving cream
After the face is fully cleansed, dried and treated with any pre-shave serums or oils, the next step is to apply shaving cream. Experts recommend lathering the face liberally with shaving cream, especially for those who are new to the shaving process.
“I would suggest making sure the lather covers the face properly,” Bailey explains. “Areas to specifically target with thicker lathering would be the chin, the mustache and the lower lip. The hairs here tend to be thicker and these areas have more shape and curve to them.”
Most tend to gravitate towards traditional shaving creams or gels that foam nicely when lathered on the face, but shaving soaps are also popular. Whichever you prefer, this step can be applied either using your hands or a shaving brush. The latter application technique will gently exfoliate the skin and will leave your face feeling even softer post-shave. “Firmly press the brush against the face to splay the bristles, then move in circular motions to fully coat the hair and the face, paying special attention to the mustache area, beneath the lips [and] between chin and cheek,” Bailey says.
“Pure Italian magic,” Murphy says of Proraso’s cost-friendly shaving soap, which is best used with the brand’s shaving brush. “It comes in many forms and varieties to best suit your needs. I recommend the soap for ease of use [but] make sure you rinse out [the bowl] after.”
Bailey recommends Taylor of Old Bond Street’s shaving cream bowl because “It lathers properly and shaves quite well.” He notes that it requires a shaving brush for application.
This is an editor-favorite for its refreshing formula that cools and soothes the skin while providing the ideal glide for a seamless shave.
Shave the bulk of the beard against the grain
Now the real fun can begin once the skin is properly cleansed and lathered with shaving cream. However it’s important not to just start swiping at your face with a razor. The razor should be handled with care, but used with enough force to trim those pesky hairs and stubble.
For inexperienced shavers or those prone to nicks and cuts, Murphy advises to shave with the grain — that’s grooming speak for shaving in the same direction the hair grows — at first until you are comfortable. “Get to grips with the angles and contours of the jaw and face first, the pressure used and growth patterns of the hair first before attempting [to shave] against the grain,” he says.
Once you get the hang of it, shaving against the grain will give you the closest shave, according to Murphy. Although, he notes, “Shaving against the grain has the highest chances of ingrown hairs and irritation,” which is why it requires a bit more skill.
After figuring out the contours of the face, focus on the mustache and areas near the mouth and lips. Continue to rinse your razor throughout the shaving process if cream or soap starts to build up in or around it.
“A safety razor is a good place to start,” Bailey notes, recommending Mühle’s barbershop-quality double edge razor. “They are affordable, depending on the finish or material used, and quite easy to use given the curved head of the blade casing. There is always the possibility to nick oneself, but these razors are quite user friendly.”
Stache Barbers’s manual razor is a favorite of Hazlitt’s. Its blade sits at a slight angle for all those hard-to-reach areas and is compact enough to carry on the go.
Our favorite men’s razor overall, this affordable pick is a no-fuss option that’s beginner friendly.
Or skip the shaving cream and go electric
If you prefer the ease of a dry shave, an electric razor might be the best option for you. The added benefit of electric shavers is that they can come with guards that allow you to trim the length of your facial hair without cutting it off completely. Keep in mind, the same rules apply to the direction of shaving — going with the grain is safer, but going against the grain will provide a cleaner cut.
Murphy calls Braun’s pocket shaver “affordable [and] compact,” highlighting its “duo-directional foil head [that’s] an accessible step into getting to grips with the electric shaver.”
“The Wahl Pro 5-Star Vapor is one of my top picks for scalp and edge work,” Hazlitt mentions. “It features the industry’s first adjustable balding blade, which allows for precise, close cuts without nicking or scraping the skin.”
“I bought this bad boy 15 years ago and it still sees me tidy to this day,” Murphy says. “It won't give you the closest shave, but used in conjunction with the above [preparation,] you're off to the races.”
Apply moisturizer or aftershave
Once you are fully satisfied with your shave (there’s no shame in repeating a step or two), it’s now time to finish off your routine. After rinsing your face with water to remove any debris or leftover shaving cream, it’s time to moisturize. Applying a rich moisturizer or aftershave will leave your beard looking fresh while also soothing the skin from any potential irritation caused during the shaving process. Aftershave helps close the pores (having a similar effect to splashing the face with cold water) while moisturizer is sure to lock in hydration. Although some prefer one over the other (and some even use both) finding what works best for your skin and its needs is the key.
After splashing the face with cold water, Hazlitt will follow up with a refreshing aftershave like this one that is formulated with 11 essential oils to prevent razor bumps and ingrown hairs.
Murphy enjoys using Ruffians’s beard and hair oil which is rich in omegas 3, 6, 7 and 9 following his shaving routine. The product can also be used in the hair and as a pre-shave beard oil.