As a board-certified dermatologist, Dr. Charles Puza is a trove of skin care wisdom, so it’s no surprise his social media content has earned him 1.8 million followers on TikTok alone. “I started content creation in August 2020 as a pandemic project during my dermatology residency,” Puza tells CNN Underscored, adding that he wanted to share the information he was learning during his residency with others. “Content creation allowed me to have an artistic outlet during the pandemic and share helpful facts with a growing audience.”
When we asked Puza, who is also the founder of NYC-based clinic, MomaDerm, to share some of the most common skin care mistakes he sees, improper sun care was, unsurprisingly, one of the biggest. “I often hear ‘I wear sunscreen when I go outside/to the beach/vacation,’ but intermittent daily sun exposure is also bad for your skin,” he says. “Compare your forearm to the outside of your hand (or look at an older person), you can see the accumulation of daily sun exposure causing thin skin, sunspots and predisposing you to skin cancer.”
Then there’s the all-too-common mistake of skipping out on dandruff shampoo. “Even if you don’t have visible flakes, background dandruff leads to inflammation on the scalp, which can weaken your hair follicles,” he says. In fact, Puza adds that it’s a good idea to have a few different shampoos in rotation. He likes the Vichy Dercos One Shampoo for reducing buildup and flakes, and recommends using a ketoconazole shampoo to “decrease Malassezia fungus which contributes to dandruff,” plus any other favorites.
For those looking to establish a skin care routine, he recommends taking it slow and offers up some other pointers:
- Test a new product on your forearm for a few days before general application to the face.
- Only start one new product at a time.
- Be patient. Any new skin care routine takes time to be effective. Remember, it takes four weeks for your skin cells to turn over.
- Don’t stress about it being too complicated. A good basic skin care routine has a cleanser, antioxidant serum, moisturizer, spf and retinoid.
He also recommends looking for skin care formulated with ingredients that will address your skin concerns. “As someone with oily skin, rosacea-prone skin and approaching my mid-30s, I look for ingredients to address those concerns,” he says. To combat oiliness, Puza looks for beta hydroxy acids, like salicylic acid. To address rosacea-prone skin, he looks for ingredients like centella and witch hazel and for anti-aging concerns, alpha hydroxy acids, like glycolic acid and retinoids.
As with anything you buy online, you’ll want to exercise caution when shopping for beauty products, so you don’t fall victim to counterfeit ones. “I always recommend to buy from the official store/distributor on Amazon, which unfortunately, isn’t usually the cheapest,” he says. “Beware of the cheap official-looking products. When buying Korean beauty products, the site YesStyle is a legitimate source I use.”
Ahead, Puza shares his current favorite skin care products with CNN Underscored.
According to Puza, the Skin1004 Probio-Cica Intensive Ampoule uses “a mix of probiotics and centella to help calm redness and rosacea-prone skin.” As part of his morning skin care routine, he applies the ampoule to his face after cleansing and applying a serum and vitamin C. Suitable for all skin types, the ampoule has a nonsticky finish and leaves skin with a glow.
For facial cleansers, Puza is a fan of the Aestura Atobarrier365 Bubble Cleanser, which “cleans without overdrawing” and has a “buttery-soft texture.” He also notes that the foam cleanser, which has a slightly acidic pH, leaves your skin feeling hydrated.
When it comes to sunscreen, Puza likes this one from Skin1004, noting that it doesn't leave a white cast and utilizes centella to address redness. Formulated to be “reef safe,” the sunscreen has a serum-like consistency and features ingredients like hyaluronic acid for moisturized skin. The dermatologist also signs off on the Supergoop Mineral Unseen Sunscreen.
The derm tries to avoid essential oils and fragrances because of his sensitive skin, and he also skips out on mechanical exfoliation, instead opting for chemical exfoliants to slough away dead skin cells. In particular, he loves this glycolic body scrub from Skinfix that “helps to gently exfoliate and smooth the skin.” Formulated with glycolic and lactic acids, the body scrub has a creamy formula and can be used up to three times a week. It’s also “great for strawberry skin,” he says.
Struggling with thigh chafing? Puza singles out this anti-chafe stick from First Aid Beauty. According to the dermatologist, the “roll-on applicator and oatmeal in the formulation help[s] to protect thighs [and] skin folds from irritation.” The fragrance– and alcohol-free product is easy to apply, won’t leave behind a mess and is sweat-resistant.
Puza, who is currently partnered with Clinique, describes this product as “a powerful anti-aging serum that helps to stimulate new collagen production.” He also adds that there’s “some evidence that equates it to in-office laser resurfacing.” Created to reduce the appearance of wrinkles while firming the skin, the serum features 1% advanced retinoid, peptides and hyaluronic acid.
This eye cream from Korean skin care brand, Isdin, makes Puza’s list. As he notes, it’s “one of the few on the market with vitamin K and helps to brighten dark under-eyes.” He’s also a fan of Skinbetter’s EyeMax, which he applies as the last step in his current nighttime skin care routine.
One of Puza’s favorite lip balms is the Clinique Hydro Plump Lip Treatment, which he says hydrates and plumps the lips without any stickiness. He also notes that with this lip treatment, there’s “no subclinical irritation from fragrance or flavor.” Formulated with shea butter, the lip treatment can be applied as a mask or whenever your lips need some extra attention.
To maintain the health of his hair, Puza relies on the viral bond-building K18 Intensive Hair Mask. “I swim a lot, and the chlorine dries out my hair,” he shares. “That mask has been a game changer for me.” Suitable for all hair types, four minutes is all it takes for this leave-in treatment to work its magic.