How to build the best skin care routine for your skin type, according to dermatologists

You can have an entire vanity filled to the brim with fancy, expensive skin care products, but if they’re not tailored to your skin type, they might not do you any good. The best way to build a daily skin care routine for your skin type, of course, is to start by identifying which end of the spectrum you’re on, says Dr. Kristina Collins, a double board-certified dermatologist in Austin, Texas.

“Ask yourself if you tend to look shiny or dewy throughout the day, or if your skin is more likely to get dry and flaky,” she says, noting that those with oily skin may struggle with acne or blackheads, while those with drier skin will likely feel tight after washing it. If some areas feel dry while others, like the T-zone, are oily, you’re dealing with combination skin. Meanwhile, those with sensitive skin often get red, irritated or itchy upon contact with anything from a new product to the wrong washcloth. Lastly, if most of your concerns surround fine lines, deep wrinkles, age spots or dullness, you can categorize your skin as aging — which it’s supposed to do.

The good news is that determining your skin type isn’t particularly difficult, but it can change over time, says Dr. Corey L. Hartman, founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama. He says the most common cause of that change is hormonal fluctuations in the body. “There can be short-term changes, like people who menstruate may find that their skin is oilier in the week leading up to their period, as well as long-term changes. As most people age, our skin becomes drier and less oily as sebum production naturally slows down.”

One thing every derm we spoke to agrees on: Everyone, regardless of skin type, should be wearing sunscreen with at least broad-spectrum SPF 30 or above — and the kind in your makeup doesn’t count. We spoke to the experts to find out the best way to build your skin care routine based on your skin type. Find their answers — as well as their favorite products — ahead.

Skin care routine for oily skin

“Patients with oily skin have an overproduction of oil glands that create sebum,” says Hartman, noting that those with oily and acne-prone skin often think that they can’t use an oil or shouldn’t use a moisturizer consistently, as they fear that doing so will make their skin more oily. Still, he — along with every other derm we spoke to — recommends a daily moisturizer to minimize sebum overproduction, which can happen if you try to strip your complexion of what it needs.

“Contrary to what many people think, oily skin also requires moisturizer, just as dry skin does,” says Collins, who recommends moisturizers and serums with hyaluronic acid, “a powerhouse skin care ingredient that penetrates the skin easily due to its extremely small molecular size. Once inside the skin, it helps draw water in and serves as a great hydrator for both dry and oily skin.”

Dr. Joshua Zeichner, associate professor of dermatology and the director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York, agrees and also recommends looking for a cleanser or lotion with salicylic acid. He calls it “a go-to ingredient for people who are oily. It’s a beta hydroxy acid that removes excess oil and dead cells from the surface of the skin.”

Skin care routine for dry skin

“Dry skin types can tolerate more dense moisturizers and facial oils in their skin care regimens,” says Collins. “This type of skin needs moisturizer with a combination of elements, including humectants that attract water like hyaluronic acid and glycerin, and occlusives/emollients that help repair the skin barrier, lock in hydration and prevent transepidermal water loss like most butters and oils, squalene, fatty acids and ceramides.”

Hartman agrees, adding that occlusives add a physical barrier between the skin to prevent transepidermal water loss — the logic behind the slugging method — locking in the hydration added to the skin. “Common occlusives include beeswax, argan oil, jojoba oil and mineral oil,” he notes.

Skin care routine for combination skin

Zeichner notes that combo skin types may notice they break out in certain areas but can feel dry in others. While combination skin may feel like the kiss of death, Hartman confirms that “most people can keep their routine uniform and use the same products all over the face. You might find that you add a bit more of your moisturizer to the drier areas or use an acne spot treatment in the oilier areas for any active acne,” he says.

Skin care routine for sensitive skin

If you have sensitive skin, “less is more,” says Zeichner, who can’t stress it enough. “Avoid products that contain fragrances, which are known to cause allergic reactions. Stay away from harsh actives that can irritate the skin like retinol or glycolic acid.” Instead, he recommends gluconolactone — “a polyhydroxy acid that offers ultra-mild exfoliation in anti-aging benefits while it hydrates” — as a great option for those with sensitive skin.

Collins agrees, adding that “those with sensitive skin are often more bothered by the ‘filler’ or chemical additives in skin care products than they are by the actual active ingredients,” but that they might benefit by skin cycling harsher ingredients like retinyl ester.

Hartman also recommends looking for ingredients that will help fortify the skin barrier without irritating it, like ceramides, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, aloe and shea butter.

Skin care routine for aging skin

First things first: Skin is supposed to age. It’s supposed to change and evolve — but fighting the signs of aging doesn’t always have to be done in vain.

“The aging process begins at birth and never stops,” says Collins. “Throughout our lives, DNA changes occur in our skin cells due to environmental exposures like UV radiation, pollution and exposure to other toxins such as through our food sources. Skin care that targets the signs of aging generally includes ingredients that help prevent DNA damage from free radicals,” she says, adding that an anti-aging skin care routine doesn’t have to fight wrinkles as much as it should prevent DNA damage. “Everyone can benefit from starting the day with application of a product concentrated with antioxidant ingredients and then following that with a sunscreen application, which in conjunction will greatly reduce the potential for the early accumulation of DNA changes associated with premature aging.”

Hartman recommends that everyone — save for those with overly sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea — should start using retinoids as early as their 20s or 30s. “Retinoids are the single most effective component of a skin care regimen for prevention of signs of aging,” he says. “The benefits are numerous and unparalleled and are arguably the most important step that you can take for overall skin health and anti-aging after SPF. Retinols regulate cell turnover, promote effective exfoliation, prevent acne, even discoloration, control oil, smooth fine lines and wrinkles, unclog pores and so much more.”