Keeping your skin hydrated during the colder months is already a common concern, but ensuring that your skin barrier is both intact and prepped for that extra hydration is something you might not have considered.
If you’re wondering what a skin barrier is or why it requires your attention, you’re not alone. Dr. Ben Johnson, MD, says, “Most people refer to two specific aspects of the epidermis to describe the barrier: the stratum corneum made of 15 layers of dead skin cells compacted together, and the lipid barrier that is intermingled with it.” He also explains that it is constantly being maintained naturally by the skin.
But why exactly is the skin barrier so important, especially during these dry, colder months? Holistic skin scientist and skin wellness expert Dr. Jennifer Davis Alexander, PhD, says, “The skin barrier is the first line of defense against water loss from the skin, known as transepidermal water loss (TEWL).” She also notes that other environmental factors like pollution, UV rays and other harmful contaminants like microbes and irritants can further irritate your skin barrier.
What does a healthy skin barrier look like?
There are a couple of physical indicators that you have a healthy skin barrier. Alexander says, “A healthy barrier is hydrated, radiant, plump, smooth, elastic and lacks invisible signs of irritation, such as tightness or stinging.” If your skin looks dewy and luminous, chances are your skin barrier is in good condition.
On the contrary, telltale signs of a damaged skin barrier include opposite characteristics. Excess redness, irritation or if it feels hypersensitive when using an exfoliant is most likely due to an unhealthy barrier. Symptoms to look out for include dryness, dullness, flaking, burning, itching, stinging or even tightness. According to Alexander, you might even be able to recognize if your barrier is compromised before you start experiencing physical signs. “Research suggests that invisible signs of irritation (neurosensory irritation) are a good initial indicator of a damaged [skin] barrier, as they often precede visible signs of irritation,” she says.
Although barrier disruption can impact anyone regardless of skin type, according to Alexander, “Those with dry skin are often more prone to barrier disruption because their skin lacks sufficient sebum, the oily substance made by our sebaceous glands that naturally protects and moisturizes the skin barrier.” Furthermore, Johnson notes, “Sometimes barriers are damaged by the inflammation from a skin condition. For example, rosacea often involves a compromised barrier because the skin is utilizing its immune cells and critical skin nutrients to manage that issue in the deeper skin, which often leaves the barrier in a disrepair.” Those who are acne-prone also face damaging their skin barrier due to treating the condition with multiple different products, according to Johnson.
How to repair a damaged skin barrier
As our largest organ, skin is impacted by our lifestyle choices. The truth is, any type of exfoliation is going to do at least some level of damage to the barrier, according to Johnson. “This includes scrubs, acids, most retinols, excessive alcohol and/or vitamin C (over 10%),” he explains. “Depending on the level of insult to the barrier it can take from one to 10 days for it to heal once the exfoliant is stopped.” The good news is that the skin has the capability of healing on its own.
To help speed up the process and minimize damage overall, Alexander recommends avoiding inflammatory foods and instead consuming antioxidant-rich foods, such as berries, mushrooms, cruciferous vegetables and green tea as well as foods rich in omega-3s such as soybeans, nuts and seeds (hemp, flax and chia). The expert says ample hydration and sleep will also help, since the skin repairs itself at night.
When it comes to barrier-supporting skin care, anything with anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antioxidant properties are ideal. More specifically, Alexander suggests seeking out humectants and emollients within products that contain organic, minimally processed amounts of “coconut oil, shea butter, aloe vera, honey and jojoba oil.” Ceramides, humectants (hyaluronic acid, glycerin) and occlusives (petrolatum) are also helpful ingredients for supporting the barrier and preventing TEWL. Some less common ones include phosphatidylcholine, trioxolane and chlorella, as recommended by Johnson. Alexander also recommends a daily sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher to protect against free-radical damage from the sun.
Ahead, check out the best skin barrier repair creams and products to add to your routine.
Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Muneeb Shah says that this "is a great addition to your morning routine for lasting hydration throughout the day and essential SPF protection. With antioxidant green tea to help recover skin from the damaging effects of pollution and stress as well as prebiotics for a more balanced complexion, it’s a good option for anyone seeking healthier, brighter and smoother skin in just two weeks."
Johnson's own patented formula utilizes ozonized ethyl oleate (trioxolane) to repair free-radical damage and heal stressed skin. It's formulated specifically for those dealing with conditions that lead to sensitized skin barriers, such as rosacea and acne.
If you’re acne-prone like me, this moisturizer is ideal because it’s not too heavy while still having lots of healing, hydrating properties, including a custom 2% barrier repair complex containing a blend of hexapeptide-12, ceramide NG and other emollients.
This has been my go-to nighttime moisturizer for a while now. It layers perfectly with all of your other products while still being super lightweight. It’s oil-free, it's noncomedogenic and it contains a hefty amount of ceramides, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide.
With more than 2.5 thousand reviews, this moisturizer contains key hydrators that are essential to barrier repair like shea butter, squalane and peptides. It's also one of Underscored's beauty editor's favorites.
This product is “intentionally basic” and packed with ceramides and hyaluronic acid, making it perfect for sensitive skin.
Specifically designed for barrier support, this moisturizing serum is formulated with 30% glycerin for the utmost hydration. It also contains multi-molecular weight humectants like polyglutamic acid, and soothing agents like bisabolol, prickly pear extract and niacinamide.
This skin-strengthening serum contains omega-3, -6 and -9, which help to reinforce and smooth skin along with calming and soothing irritated skin.
As its name suggests, this moisturizer is aimed at bulking up your skin barrier. Its top-tier formula features peptides, ceramides and amino acids to help support the barrier, while humectant glycerin and hyaluronic acid boost the skin's moisture.
Our beauty editor loves using this ultra-rich, restorative cream when her skin is particularly stressed or irritated. The thick texture makes it suitable for a nighttime skin care routine, and she'll apply it to any particularly dry, uncomfortable patches. It can even be used to help skin heal from cuts and burns.
This cream features humectant, emollient and occlusive ingredients to prevent water loss, along with barrier-supporting ceramides. It makes a great addition to a slugging skin care routine.
Rich in antioxidants, thanks to the kinkelbia plant and a number of anti-inflammatory ingredients, this serum visibly calms the skin. It's a great option for those who don't like the feeling of a thicker cream but are still looking for the barrier benefits.