Editor's Note: (Alan Dymock is the Features Editor for Rugby World magazine. This feature was first published in April 2018.
)
(CNN) In 2015, high over the North Stand of Hong Kong Stadium, above the commentators and scorers booths, comedian Al Murray sipped from a bottle of water. It had been a pleasantly grueling few days at the Hong Kong Sevens.
Asked about the key to enjoying the tournament, he said: "You just have to hand yourself over and not worry about what time of day or night it might be."
Two days later, high-spirited commentator Sean Maloney tweeted of the Hong Kong Sevens: "It's like fighting Mike Tyson and Muhammad Ali on alternating nights for an entire week [sic]."
You know he typed this out with a big grin on his face.
Thousands of fans love Hong Kong, and players do, too. But how has this trading hub on the southern cusp of China become the go-to destination to watch -- and revel in -- sevens rugby?
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History
The idea of the Hong Kong Sevens was hashed out over drinks in 1976.
It was a simpler time back when Ian Gow, an executive from Rothmans Tobacco, and 'Tokkie' Smith of the Hong Kong union decided to push through the inaugural Hong Kong Sevens.
Kiwi outfit Cantabrians bested 11 other southern hemisphere sides to be crowned the first ever kings of Hong Kong.
13 locations, 16 tournaments, lots of tries.
USA defeated New Zealand 26-10 to win its first ever cup title, but there was reason to be cheerful for the Black Ferns, too. They won the overall series crown with 110 points -- 10 clear of the USA.
Fiji backed up victory in London by wrapping up the overall series title in Paris a week later. The Pacific Islanders defeated New Zealand 35-24 in the French capital to seal their fourth overall crown.
Fiji won back-to-back London Sevens titles for the first time by demolishing Australia 43-7. Gareth Baber's side moved to the top of the overall standings after ousting title rival USA in the semifinals.
The Black Ferns recorded their fourth title of the season in Langford, Canada, after beating Australia 21-17 in the final. Ruby Tui (pictured) made the tournament's
Dream Team.
A last-gasp try saw Canada defeat England 7-5 to win its first title of the season in Japan. It was also the first time ever that neither Australia and New Zealand featured in the final four of a World Rugby Sevens Series tournament. The Black Ferns fell to the USA, while Australia was beaten by England.
South Africa recorded a remarkable comeback in Singapore to defeat Fiji 20-19 having trailed 19-0 in the final.
Fiji proved that its love for the Hong Kong Sevens -- the series' showpiece tournament -- is as strong as ever. The Pacific Islanders defeated France to win the title for the fifth straight time. The players are pictured lifting a ball boy in the air before the start of the final.
Meanwhile, Ireland earned core team status in next season's series after defeating host Hong Kong 28-7 in the final of the qualifier event.
South Africa overcame France 21-12 to win its first title of the season. The World Series' defending champion saw off Argentina and Fiji in the knockout stages before outscoring Les Bleus by three tries to two in the final in Vancouver.
USA's trophy drought finally came to an end as the Eagles secured back-to-back titles in Las Vegas, cementing their position at the top of the overall standings midway through the season. A comfortable 27-0 victory over Samoa handed USA the title.
The All Blacks Sevens secured their second title of the season after defeating USA in the final in Sydney.
That added to the Black Ferns' victory to see New Zealand complete the double in Australia.
Fiji secured back-to-back victories on the World Series after a thumping 38-0 victory over the USA. Jerry Tuwai crossed twice in the final.
Fijian players huddle after defeating USA to record their first win of the season in Cape Town.
New Zealand players perform the haka after winning the Dubai Sevens title by defeating USA.
A 26-14 victory over Canada in the women's final meant New Zealand did the double in Dubai.
New Zealand's Black Ferns started the season is style by winning the Glendale Sevens, a new tournament for the 2018-19 season.
The very next day, an editorial from the South China Morning Post proclaimed that the spectacle showed the "glorious uncertainty that makes seven-a-side rugby arguably the fastest and best ball game in sport."
From such humble beginnings this present-day monster of an event set forth. But only a year later, something magnificent happened -- the Fijians joined the party.
In 1977 Fiji won its first title and the people of Hong Kong fell head over heals in love -- an affinity that endures to this day (as you will see from the enclave of never-budging Fiji fans in the North Stand).
Former captain Osea Kolinisau said of the event: "It's kind of a rite of passage for us Fijians, we grew up watching legends of the game playing here."
There have certainly been plenty of them. Fiji has triumphed in Hong Kong 19 times in total. New Zealand has won 11 titles, Australia has five, England four, Samoa three and the Barbarians and Cantabrians have one win each.
As well as growing into the "one to win" for so many sevens sides, the tournament is also the base for new beginnings.
With 28 teams in total at the ground this year, it is now where teams from outside of the men's and women's Sevens World Series fight it out in competitions running concurrently to the series event, hoping to qualify as a core team for next season's circuits.
Hong Kong Sevens
It's perhaps the biggest party in the world of sport...
The annual Hong Kong Sevens, which this year was held from April 5-7, is loved by rugby fans and players alike, regularly attracting as many as 120,000 spectators.
Asked about the key to enjoying the event, comedian Al Murray once said: "You just have to hand yourself over and not worry about what time of day or night it might be."
No wonder there is a saying in Hong Kong: "If you ever get bored of the sevens, you can turn around and watch the rugby."
The Hong Kong Sevens dates back to 1976, with Fiji boasting more wins than any other country. The island nation picked up a record fourth-straight victory at the
2018 tournament.
From small beginnings, it's now a truly global affair, with 28 teams in total at the ground this year.
"What is incredibly special is that the city shuts down for it,"
says England sevens veteran James Rodwell, describing the sight of rugby-hungry fans in the stadium for three whole days as "humbling."
World famous for the atmosphere it generates, the Hong Kong South Stand does not stop jumping all weekend.
Fancy dress is a must.
With the 40,000 seater stadium a vibrant mix of color and noise, Hong Kong's atmosphere has set a precedent for other World Series tournaments, most notably
London and
Las Vegas.
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Vivid play
"What is incredibly special is that the city shuts down for it," says England sevens veteran James Rodwell, who first played in the showstopper in 2009.
Hong Kong is a three-day event, unlike many others on the series. Rodwell explains that Friday playing days elsewhere can be unheralded affairs. But not at the modern Hong Kong Sevens.
"With England we usually play the game quite late in the afternoon," he says. "You wait all day for 14 minutes of rugby, which is quite strange. But you can run out for your game and there are supporters there."
He describes the sight of rugby-hungry fans, especially expat England fans, in the stadium for three whole days as "humbling."
But supporters have definitely been treated by the players over the years.
The great Jonah Lomu dominated as New Zealand won in 1994, 1995 (before that famous World Cup) and 1996.
That same year, Kiwi great Christian Cullen set a record for points scored in a single tournament (136). The most famous name in sevens, Waisale Serevi, won the Leslie Williams Trophy for outstanding player four times; he also won the tournament seven times.
Australia's David Campese is still talked about by regulars as a true entertainer while the recent iterations of Fiji have played loose-limbed, swashbuckling stuff.
Not that Hong Kong only caters for flat-track flyers. The conditions can be tough. Sure, there is constant humidity, but it can be blaringly sunny just before the heavens open up.
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One of the most iconic images of the tournament came in 2014, when New Zealand celebrated a punishing 26-7 win over England by doing a topless Haka in the rain.
Rodwell, who was on the losing side in that final, insists that as pretty as it all was, the match would have had to be abandoned had it gone on a few minutes longer. Rainwater was puddling deeply on the playing surface as the Kiwis did their dance.
Atmosphere
There is a saying in Hong Kong: "If you ever get bored of the sevens, you can turn around and watch the rugby."
Chances are, that saying is aimed directly at the South Stand. World famous for the atmosphere it generates, the South Stand does not stop jumping all weekend. Queues for it start early in the morning and before play begins on the Saturday and Sunday; it will revert to a strict "one out, one in" policy.
America's growing love for rugby
The ever-increasing popularity of the Las Vegas Sevens is helping rugby to become one of the fastest-growing sports in the United States.
The 2017 event attracted record crowds to Sam Boyd Stadium for the seventh consecutive year with an attendance of 80,691 across the three days.
Like many sevens events around the world, Vegas inspires a party atmosphere with spectators coming in fancy dress.
The 2017 attendance was a slim increase on the previous year, which brought in 80,138, including these fans dressed as Elvis Presley.
The USA has enjoyed its best start to a sevens season this year, finishing runner-up at the first four tournaments.
Over 100,000 fans attended the Rugby World Cup Sevens in San Francisco, the best-attended rugby event ever in the USA.
In common with rugby's US sports rivals, cheerleaders play a big part in the entertainment schedule at Vegas -- which over the years has included Cirque Du Soleil and fighter jets. Here members of the USA Sevens Sweethearts perform during the 2015 tournament.
The 2016 tournament was broadcast on NBC and its Sports Network. It reportedly reached national and international audiences in over 400 million homes and 147 countries. Here a Samoan rugby fan supports his team in 2016.
A security guard chases a costumed fan after she ran on the pitch during the 2015 Cup Final match between Fiji and New Zealand.
It required two guards to finally bring the woman to the ground.
Security was busy that day, as this fan also invaded the pitch before Fiji beat New Zealand. It was the All Blacks' fourth successive defeat in Vegas finals.
This fan also took center stage during a 2014 match between the US and Spain.
Players get close to the crowds in Vegas. Here members of the Canadian team pose with fans following a 2014 match against Samoa.
US speedster Carlin Isles, who bagged a try in the 2018 final, is popular with the home supporters. Here he wears a cheese hat at the request of a fan taking his photo after a 2014 game.
Everyone in there is in fancy dress, too.
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Back in 2015, comedian Murray explained that the tournament is at its brightest when fans commit to fancy dress.
He went further: "One of my highlights this year was the guy who got dressed as Kim Jung-un, with loads of bodyguards. He even had Dennis Rodman with him. That's really funny. Apparently they were moving people out of the Dear Leader's way -- that's just awesome!"
Laughing about the party atmosphere, Rodwell says: "When I met her, my wife had never seen rugby before, but she had heard of the Hong Kong Sevens!"
He goes on to say that, despite playing there many times, a trip to the South Stand is "on my bucket list."
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There are many other sights, sounds and snacking delights to be found in Hong Kong. It is an assault on the senses.
When it is in full sway, though, little in Hong Kong can carry you off as much as the sevens can.